Saraf S, Kaur C D
University Institute of Pharmacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur (C.G.) - 492 010, India.
Pharmacogn Rev. 2010 Jan;4(7):1-11. doi: 10.4103/0973-7847.65319.
Phytoconstituents are gaining popularity as ingredients in cosmetic formulations as they can protect the skin against exogenous and endogenous harmful agents and can help remedy many skin conditions. Exposure of skin to sunlight and other atmospheric conditions causes the production of reactive oxygen species, which can react with DNA, proteins, and fatty acids, causing oxidative damage and impairment of antioxidant system. Such injuries damage regulation pathways of skin and lead to photoaging and skin cancer development. The effects of aging include wrinkles, roughness, appearance of fine lines, lack of elasticity, and de- or hyperpigmentation marks. Herbal extracts act on these areas and produce healing, softening, rejuvenating, and sunscreen effects. We have selected a few photoprotective phytoconstituents, such as curcumin, resveratrol, tea polyphenols, silymarin, quercetin and ascorbic acid, and have discussed the considerations to be undertaken for the development of herbal cosmetic formulations that could reduce the occurrence of skin cancer and delay the process of photoaging. This article is aimed at providing specific and compiled knowledge for the successful preparation of photoprotective herbal cosmetic formulations.
植物成分作为化妆品配方中的成分越来越受欢迎，因为它们可以保护皮肤免受外源性和内源性有害物质的侵害，并有助于治疗多种皮肤问题。皮肤暴露于阳光和其他大气条件下会产生活性氧，活性氧可与DNA、蛋白质和脂肪酸发生反应，导致氧化损伤和抗氧化系统受损。这种损伤会破坏皮肤的调节途径，导致光老化和皮肤癌的发生。衰老的影响包括皱纹、粗糙、细纹出现、缺乏弹性以及色素沉着减退或过度沉着。草药提取物作用于这些部位，产生愈合、软化、焕肤和防晒效果。我们选择了一些具有光保护作用的植物成分，如姜黄素、白藜芦醇、茶多酚、水飞蓟宾、槲皮素和抗坏血酸，并讨论了开发可减少皮肤癌发生和延缓光老化过程的草药化妆品配方时应考虑的因素。本文旨在为成功制备具有光保护作用的草药化妆品配方提供具体的综合知识。
