Bonté F
LVMH Recherche, Saint-Jean-de-Braye, France.
Ann Pharm Fr. 2011 May;69(3):135-41. doi: 10.1016/j.pharma.2011.01.004. Epub 2011 Mar 17.
The main function of the skin is to protect the body against exogenous substances and excessive water loss. The skin barrier is located in the outermost layer of the skin, called the stratum corneum, which is composed of corneocytes, originating from the keratinocytes differentiation process, embedded in organized complex lipid domains. Moisturizing of the skin is recognized as the first anti-aging skin care. Skin moisturization is essential for its appearance, protection, complexion, softness and the reinforcement of its barrier properties against deleterious and exogenous environmental factors. The intrinsic water binding capacity of skin is not only due to the complex natural moisturizing factor present in corneocytes, but also to hyaluronic acid and a regulated water transport within the skin. Recent data shows that the water movements between the cells at the different levels of the epidermis are due to dedicated water and glycerol transport proteins named aquaporins. Their role in the skin moisturization is completed by corneodesmosomes and tight junctions. Water and pH are now shown to be of prime importance in the regulation of the epidermal enzymes linked to corneocytes desquamation and lipid synthesis. Furthermore, the level of moisturization of the skin is important in its protection against repeated exposure to various irritant agents or phenomena such as very frequent washing with strong tensioactive materials.
皮肤的主要功能是保护身体免受外来物质侵害并防止水分过度流失。皮肤屏障位于皮肤的最外层,即角质层,它由角质形成细胞分化过程产生的角质形成细胞组成,嵌入有组织的复杂脂质区域。皮肤保湿被认为是首要的抗老化皮肤护理措施。皮肤保湿对于其外观、保护、肤色、柔软度以及增强其抵御有害和外部环境因素的屏障特性至关重要。皮肤的固有水结合能力不仅归因于角质形成细胞中存在的复杂天然保湿因子,还归因于透明质酸以及皮肤内受调节的水运输。最近的数据表明,表皮不同层次细胞间的水分移动是由名为水通道蛋白的特定水和甘油转运蛋白介导的。它们在皮肤保湿中的作用由角质桥粒和紧密连接共同完成。现已表明,水和pH值在调节与角质形成细胞脱屑和脂质合成相关的表皮酶方面至关重要。此外,皮肤的保湿水平对于其抵御反复接触各种刺激剂或现象(如频繁使用强力表面活性剂清洗)也很重要。