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化妆品中使用的草药油的体外防晒系数测定

In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics.

作者信息

Kaur Chanchal Deep, Saraf Swarnlata

机构信息

University Institute of Pharmacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur (C.G.) - 492 010, India.

出版信息

Pharmacognosy Res. 2010 Jan;2(1):22-5. doi: 10.4103/0974-8490.60586.

Abstract

The aim of this study was to evaluate ultraviolet (UV) absorption ability of volatile and nonvolatile herbal oils used in sunscreens or cosmetics and express the same in terms of sun protection factor (SPF) values. Sun protection factor is a laboratory measure of the effectiveness of sunscreen; the higher the SPF, the more protection a sunscreen offers against the ultraviolet radiations causing sunburn. The in vitro SPF is determined according to the spectrophotometric method of Mansur et al. Hydroalcoholic dilutions of oils were prepared, and in vitro photoprotective activity was studied by UV spectrophotometric method in the range of 290-320 nm. It can be observed that the SPF values found for nonvolatile oils were in between 2 and 8; and for volatile oils, in between 1 and 7. Among the fixed oils taken, SPF value of olive oil was found to be the highest. Similarly among essential oils, SPF value of peppermint oil was found to be the highest. The study will be helpful in the selection of oils and fragrances to develop sunscreens with better safety and high SPF. Oily vehicles are more effective for producing a uniform and long-lasting film of sunscreen on the skin, and their emollient properties protect the skin against the drying effects of exposure to wind and sun. Volatile oils are used as perfumes in cosmetics.

摘要

本研究的目的是评估用于防晒霜或化妆品中的挥发性和非挥发性草药油的紫外线吸收能力,并以防晒系数(SPF)值来表示。防晒系数是衡量防晒霜效果的一项实验室指标;SPF值越高,防晒霜对导致晒伤的紫外线的防护作用越强。体外SPF是根据曼苏尔等人的分光光度法测定的。制备了油的水醇稀释液,并通过紫外分光光度法在290 - 320nm范围内研究了体外光保护活性。可以观察到,非挥发性油的SPF值在2至8之间;挥发性油的SPF值在1至7之间。在所研究的固定油中,橄榄油的SPF值最高。同样,在香精油中,薄荷油的SPF值最高。该研究将有助于选择油类和香料,以开发出安全性更高、SPF值更高的防晒霜。油性载体对于在皮肤上形成均匀且持久的防晒膜更有效,并且它们的润肤特性可保护皮肤免受风吹日晒的干燥影响。挥发性油在化妆品中用作香料。

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