Dipartimento di Scienze e Innovazione Tecnologica, DiSIT, Università del Piemonte Orientale "Amedeo Avogadro", Alessandria, Italy.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013 Dec;12(4):306-13. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12058.
Honey is a bee-derived, supersaturated solution composed mainly of fructose and glucose, and containing proteins and amino acids, vitamins, enzymes, minerals, and other minor components. Historical records of honey skin uses date back to the earliest civilizations, showing that honey has been frequently used as a binder or vehicle, but also for its therapeutic virtues. Antimicrobial properties are pivotal in dermatological applications, owing to enzymatic H2 O2 release or the presence of active components, like methylglyoxal in manuka, while medical-grade honey is also available. Honey is particularly suitable as a dressing for wounds and burns and has also been included in treatments against pityriasis, tinea, seborrhea, dandruff, diaper dermatitis, psoriasis, hemorrhoids, and anal fissure. In cosmetic formulations, it exerts emollient, humectant, soothing, and hair conditioning effects, keeps the skin juvenile and retards wrinkle formation, regulates pH and prevents pathogen infections. Honey-based cosmetic products include lip ointments, cleansing milks, hydrating creams, after sun, tonic lotions, shampoos, and conditioners. The used amounts range between 1 and 10%, but concentrations up to 70% can be reached by mixing with oils, gel, and emulsifiers, or polymer entrapment. Intermediate-moisture, dried, and chemically modified honeys are also used. Mechanisms of action on skin cells are deeply conditioned by the botanical sources and include antioxidant activity, the induction of cytokines and matrix metalloproteinase expression, as well as epithelial-mesenchymal transition in wounded epidermis. Future achievements, throwing light on honey chemistry and pharmacological traits, will open the way to new therapeutic approaches and add considerable market value to the product.
蜂蜜是一种由蜜蜂产生的过饱和溶液,主要由果糖和葡萄糖组成,还含有蛋白质和氨基酸、维生素、酶、矿物质和其他少量成分。有关蜂蜜在皮肤方面应用的历史记录可以追溯到最早的文明时期,表明蜂蜜经常被用作粘合剂或载体,也因其治疗功效而被使用。由于酶促 H2O2 的释放或存在活性成分(如麦卢卡中的甲基乙二醛),蜂蜜具有抗菌特性,这在皮肤科应用中至关重要,而医用级蜂蜜也可获得。蜂蜜特别适合作为伤口和烧伤的敷料,也被包括在治疗体癣、癣、脂溢性皮炎、头皮屑、尿布皮炎、银屑病、痔疮和肛裂的治疗中。在化妆品配方中,它具有滋润、保湿、舒缓和调理头发的作用,使皮肤保持年轻,延缓皱纹形成,调节 pH 值并防止病原体感染。基于蜂蜜的化妆品包括唇膏、清洁奶、保湿霜、晒后乳液、爽肤水、洗发水和护发素。使用量在 1%到 10%之间,但通过与油、凝胶和乳化剂混合,或聚合物包埋,浓度可高达 70%。中等湿度、干燥和化学改性的蜂蜜也被使用。对皮肤细胞的作用机制深受植物来源的影响,包括抗氧化活性、细胞因子和基质金属蛋白酶表达的诱导,以及受伤表皮的上皮-间充质转化。对蜂蜜化学和药理学特性的未来研究成果将为新的治疗方法开辟道路,并为该产品增加可观的市场价值。