Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K
Department of Cosmetic Chemistry, Faculty of Cosmetology, Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, 00-252 Warsaw, Poland.
Indian J Pharm Sci. 2016 Jan-Feb;78(1):27-33. doi: 10.4103/0250-474x.180247.
Centella asiatica extract is a rich source of natural bioactive substances, triterpenoid saponins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, triterpenic steroids, amino acids and sugars. Thus, many scavenging free radicals, exhibit antiinflammatory activity and affect on the stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the in vivo moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water emulsion cream and hydrogel) containing different concentrations of Centella asiatica extract. The study was conducted over four weeks on a group of 25 volunteers after twice a day application of cosmetic formulations with Centella asiatica extract (2.5 and 5%, w/w) on their forearms. The measurement of basic skin parameters (stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function) was performed once a week. The in vivo antiinflammatory activity based on the methyl nicotinate model of microinflammation in human skin was evaluated after four weeks application of tested formulations. In vivo tests formulations containing 5% of Centella asiatica extract showed the best efficacy in improving skin moisture by increase of skin surface hydration state and decrease in transepidermal water loss as well as exhibited antiinflammatory properties based on the methyl nicotinate model of microinflammation in human skin. Comparative tests conducted by corneometer, tewameter and chromameter showed that cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract have the moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties.
积雪草提取物富含多种天然生物活性物质,如三萜皂苷、黄酮类化合物、酚酸、三萜类固醇、氨基酸和糖类。因此,它具有多种清除自由基、抗炎的活性,并能影响角质层水合作用和表皮屏障功能。本研究的目的是评估含有不同浓度积雪草提取物的化妆品配方(水包油乳霜和水凝胶)的体内保湿和抗炎特性。在一组25名志愿者的前臂上,每天两次涂抹含有积雪草提取物(2.5%和5%,w/w)的化妆品配方,持续四周进行该研究。每周测量一次基本皮肤参数(角质层水合作用和表皮屏障功能)。在应用测试配方四周后,基于烟酸甲酯在人体皮肤微炎症模型评估体内抗炎活性。体内测试表明,含有5%积雪草提取物的配方在改善皮肤水分方面效果最佳,表现为皮肤表面水合状态增加和经表皮水分流失减少,同时基于烟酸甲酯在人体皮肤微炎症模型展现出抗炎特性。通过皮肤水分测试仪、经皮水分流失测试仪和色差仪进行的对比测试表明,含有积雪草提取物的化妆品配方具有保湿和抗炎特性。