Biswas Rajarshi, Mukherjee Pulok K, Kar Amit, Bahadur Shiv, Harwansh Ranjit K, Biswas Sayan, Al-Dhabi Naif Abdullah, Duraipandiyan V
School of Natural Product Studies, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Jadavpur University, Kolkata 700 032, India.
Department of Botany and Microbiology, Addiriyah Chair for Environmental Studies, College of Science, King Saud University, Riyadh 11451, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
J Ethnopharmacol. 2016 Nov 4;192:283-291. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2016.07.034. Epub 2016 Jul 11.
'Ubtan' is a traditional herbal formulation in the Indian system of medicine being used in India and its subcontinent for a long time. Several commercial skin care formulations are marketed throughout this region as the name of Ubtan. Therefore, it is worthwhile to evaluate Ubtan in respect of its efficacy as skin care formulation.
The present study was designed for the preparation of Ubtan and standardization through the chromatographic techniques by using suitable phyto-markers. Further, its antioxidant, sun protection factor (SPF) and anti-tyrosinase potential have been explored.
Four in-house formulations (UF-1, UF-2, UF-3 and UF-4) were prepared by mixing a varied quantity of each powdered plants, i.e. turmeric (Curcuma longa L.), Chickpea (Cicer arietinum L.) and sandalwood (Santalum album L.). Optimization of the formulations was made by evaluating its biological activity through in vitro assay. Evaluation of physicochemical properties of the optimized formulation (UF-1) has been carried out by analysis of pH, flow properties and stability. Moreover, RP-HPLC (reverse phase - high performance liquid chromatography) and HPTLC (high performance thin layer chromatography) standardization of UF-1 was performed for its quantitative and qualitative analysis.
Ubtan formulations (UF-1to UF-4) showed free radical scavenging and ferric reducing potential. It may be due to its high phenolic and flavonoid content. Statistically, significant Pearson's correlation (r) was confirmed the positive correlation between phenolic content and SPF of the formulations. The tyrosinase inhibition study indicated that the formulations showed both diphenolase and monophenolase inhibitory activity. Among four formulations, UF-1 showed notable biological activity (p<0.05). The content of curcumin and ascorbic acid was found to be 1.6% and 2.1% w/w respectively in UF-1 through RP-HPLC estimation. Physiochemical properties of the UF-1 exhibited good flow rate and aqueous solubility. From the stability studies, it can be anticipated that the UF-1 was stable at 40°C for longer periods. Microbial load count and heavy metal content (lead-Pb, arsenic-As, mercury-Hg and cadmium-Cd) of the formulation was also within the permissible limit of a pharmacopeial standard.
This scientific exploration helps to set the quality and safety standard of traditional cosmetic formulation, Ubtan and its further use as an herbal skin care product.
“乌檀”是印度医学体系中的一种传统草药配方，在印度及其次大陆已使用很长时间。在该地区，有几种以乌檀为名的商业护肤品配方在市场上销售。因此，评估乌檀作为护肤品配方的功效是值得的。
本研究旨在制备乌檀，并通过使用合适的植物标志物，采用色谱技术进行标准化。此外，还探索了其抗氧化、防晒系数（SPF）和抗酪氨酸酶潜力。
通过混合不同量的每种粉末状植物，即姜黄（姜黄属植物）、鹰嘴豆（鹰嘴豆属植物）和檀香（檀香属植物），制备了四种内部配方（UF-1、UF-2、UF-3和UF-4）。通过体外试验评估其生物活性，对配方进行优化。通过分析pH值、流动性和稳定性，对优化后的配方（UF-1）的物理化学性质进行了评估。此外，对UF-1进行了反相高效液相色谱（RP-HPLC）和高效薄层色谱（HPTLC）标准化，以进行定量和定性分析。
乌檀配方（UF-1至UF-4）显示出自由基清除和铁还原潜力。这可能是由于其高酚类和黄酮类含量。统计学上，显著的皮尔逊相关性（r）证实了配方中酚类含量与SPF之间的正相关。酪氨酸酶抑制研究表明，这些配方显示出双酚酶和单酚酶抑制活性。在四种配方中，UF-1显示出显著的生物活性（p<0.05）。通过RP-HPLC估算，UF-1中姜黄素和抗坏血酸的含量分别为1.6%和2.1%（w/w）。UF-1的物理化学性质表现出良好的流速和水溶性。从稳定性研究可以预期，UF-1在40°C下能长时间保持稳定。该配方的微生物负荷计数和重金属含量（铅-Pb、砷-As、汞-Hg和镉-Cd）也在药典标准的允许范围内。
这项科学探索有助于设定传统化妆品配方乌檀的质量和安全标准，并将其进一步用作草药护肤品。
