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香根草精油在化妆品中的应用:有哪些新进展?

Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New?

作者信息

Burger Pauline, Landreau Anne, Watson Marie, Janci Laurent, Cassisa Viviane, Kempf Marie, Azoulay Stéphane, Fernandez Xavier

机构信息

Université Côte d'Azur, CNRS, ICN, Nice CEDEX 2, 06108 Parc Valrose, France.

Université d'Angers, UFR Santé, 16 Boulevard Daviers, CEDEX 01, 49045 Angers, France.

出版信息

Medicines (Basel). 2017 Jun 16;4(2):41. doi: 10.3390/medicines4020041.

DOI:10.3390/medicines4020041
PMID:28930256
原文链接:https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5590077/
Abstract

Vetiver is a key ingredient for the perfume industry nowadays. However, with the constant and rapid changes of personal tastes, this appeal could vanish and this sector could decline quite quickly. New dissemination paths need to be found to tap this valuable resource. In this way, its potential use in cosmetics either as an active ingredient per se (with cosmeceutical significance or presenting antimicrobial activity) has hence been explored in vitro. In this contribution, we demonstrated that vetiver essential oil displays no particularly significant and innovative cosmetic potential value in formulations apart from its scent already largely exploited. However, evaluated against twenty bacterial strains and two species using the in vitro microbroth dilution method, vetiver oil demonstrated notably some outstanding activities against Gram-positive strains and against one strain. Based on these findings, vetiver essential oil appears to be an appropriate aspirant for the development of an antimicrobial agent for medicinal purposes and for the development of a cosmetic ingredient used for its scent and displaying antimicrobial activity as an added value.

摘要

香根草如今是香水行业的关键成分。然而,随着个人品味持续快速变化,这种吸引力可能消失,该行业可能很快衰落。需要找到新的传播途径来挖掘这一宝贵资源。 这样一来,人们已在体外探索了它作为化妆品活性成分本身(具有药妆意义或具有抗菌活性)的潜在用途。 在本论文中,我们证明,除了其香味已被大量利用之外,香根草精油在配方中没有特别显著和创新的化妆品潜在价值。然而,使用体外微量肉汤稀释法对20种细菌菌株和2种菌种进行评估时,香根草精油对革兰氏阳性菌株和一种菌株表现出显著的抗菌活性。基于这些发现,香根草精油似乎适合开发用于药用目的的抗菌剂,以及开发具有香味并具有抗菌活性作为附加值的化妆品成分。

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本文引用的文献

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Unravelling the scent of vetiver: identification of character-impact compounds.解析香根草的香气:特征性影响化合物的鉴定。
Chem Biodivers. 2014 Nov;11(11):1821-42. doi: 10.1002/cbdv.201400079.
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Antimicrobial activity of essential oils against Staphylococcus aureus biofilms.精油对金黄色葡萄球菌生物膜的抗菌活性。
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Effect of Vetiveria zizanioides essential oil on melanogenesis in melanoma cells: downregulation of tyrosinase expression and suppression of oxidative stress.香根草精油对黑色素瘤细胞黑色素生成的影响:酪氨酸酶表达下调及氧化应激抑制
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