Department of Sports, School of Physical Education, Physiotherapy and Occupational Therapy, Federal University of Minas Gerais , Minas Gerais , Brazil .
Sports Biomech. 2019 Dec;18(6):649-662. doi: 10.1080/14763141.2018.1456558. Epub 2018 May 16.
Sport climbers frequently use campus board (CB) to improve their upper limb strength under similar conditions of high-difficulty sport climbing routes. The objective of this study was to assess the test-retest reliability of peak force and impulse measured using a CB instrumented with two load cells on starting holds. The same evaluator examined 22 climbers on two days with 48 h between the assessments. The participants performed five concentric lunges (CL) and five lunges with stretch-shortening cycle with 1 min intervals between repetitions and 10 min between exercises. All variables were associated with significant intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) values ( = 0.001), and none variable showed systematic errors ( > 0.05). Peak force ICC was higher than 0.88, and the standard error of measurement (SEM%) was less than 5%. Impulse ICC for the CL was greater than 0.90, and the SEM% was less than 14%. We conclude that the kinetic variables measured using the CB were reliable. The ability of the hands to maintain contact with the holds (peak force) and the abilities of the arms and shoulders vertically move the centre of mass (impulse) should be taken into account by coaches on CB training prescription as well for further research.
攀岩运动员经常使用校园板（CB）在类似于高难度攀岩路线的条件下提高上肢力量。本研究的目的是评估使用带有两个测力传感器的 CB 仪器测量起始握把的峰值力和冲量的重测信度。同一位评估者在两天内对 22 名攀岩者进行了检查，两次评估之间间隔 48 小时。参与者进行了五次向心深蹲（CL）和五次带有伸展缩短周期的深蹲，重复之间间隔 1 分钟，运动之间间隔 10 分钟。所有变量与显著的组内相关系数（ICC）值相关（ICC = 0.001），并且没有变量显示系统误差（>0.05）。峰值力 ICC 高于 0.88，测量标准误差（SEM%）小于 5%。CL 的冲量 ICC 大于 0.90，SEM%小于 14%。我们得出结论，使用 CB 测量的运动学变量是可靠的。教练在制定 CB 训练方案以及进一步研究时，应考虑手保持与握把接触的能力（峰值力）以及手臂和肩部垂直移动质心的能力（冲量）。
