Laffaye G, Collin J-M, Levernier G, Padulo J
UR CIAMS - Motor Control and Perception Group, Sport Sciences Department, Université Paris-Sud, Orsay, France.
Motor Control and Perception Group, Sport Sciences Department, Université Paris-Sud, Orsay, France.
Int J Sports Med. 2014 Jul;35(8):670-5. doi: 10.1055/s-0033-1358473. Epub 2014 Feb 19.
The goal of the present study was to validate a new ecological power-test on athletes of different levels and to assess rock climbers' profiles (boulderers vs. route climbers). 34 athletes divided into novice, skilled and elite groups performed the arm-jump board test (AJ). Power, time, velocity, and efficiency index were recorded. Validity was assessed by comparing the distance with the value extracted from the accelerometer (500 Hz) and the reliability of intra- and inter-session scores. Moreover, a principal component analysis (PCA) was used to assess the climbers' profiles. The AJ test was quite valid, showing a low systematic bias of -0.88 cm (-1.25%) and low limits of agreement (< 6%), and reliable ( Intra-class correlation coefficient = 0.98 and CV < 5%), and was able to distinguish between the 3 samples (p < 0.0001). There was a good correlation between relative upper-limb power (r = 0.70; p < 0.01) and the AJ score. Moreover, the PCA revealed an explosive profile for boulderers and either a weak and quick or slow profile for route climbers, revealing a biomechanical signature of the sub-discipline. The AJ test provides excellent absolute and relative reliabilities for climbing, and can effectively distinguish between climbing athletes of different competitive levels. Thus, the AJ may be suitable for field assessment of upper limb strength in climbing practitioners.
本研究的目的是验证一种针对不同水平运动员的新型生态功率测试，并评估攀岩者的特征（抱石者与线路攀登者）。34名运动员分为新手、熟练和精英组，进行了手臂跳台测试（AJ）。记录了功率、时间、速度和效率指数。通过将距离与从加速度计（500Hz）提取的值进行比较以及评估组内和组间分数的可靠性来评估有效性。此外，主成分分析（PCA）用于评估攀岩者的特征。AJ测试相当有效，显示出-0.88厘米（-1.25%）的低系统偏差和<6%的低一致性界限，并且具有可靠性（组内相关系数=0.98，CV<5%），并且能够区分3个样本（p<0.0001）。相对上肢功率与AJ分数之间存在良好的相关性（r=0.70；p<0.01）。此外，主成分分析揭示了抱石者的爆发力特征以及线路攀登者的弱而快或慢的特征，揭示了该子学科的生物力学特征。AJ测试为攀岩提供了出色的绝对和相对可靠性，并且可以有效地区分不同竞技水平的攀岩运动员。因此，AJ可能适用于攀岩从业者上肢力量的现场评估。
