Sport Science Department, Complexity, Innovations, Motor and Sport Activities, University of Paris-Sud, Orsay, France.
Sport Science Department, Complexity, Innovations, Motor and Sport Activities, University of Orleans, Orleans, France.
Sports Biomech. 2021 Jun;20(4):495-506. doi: 10.1080/14763141.2019.1584236. Epub 2019 Apr 30.
The goal of this study was to assess (i) test-retest reliability between sessions and within sessions, and (ii) the difference among three skill levels (international = 12, skilled = 10 and non-climbers = 9) for finger flexor maximal force (Fmax) and rate of force development (RFD) at different time scales. Each climber performed a maximal finger flexion on a dynamometer in two different conditions: half crimp and slope crimp. The inter-session revealed no difference with low to high correlation from 0.56 to 0.94. Intra-session reliability reveals intraclass correlation ranging from 0.40 to 0.98 for all groups. The coefficients of variation ranged from 7.77% to 28.34% for RFD and 2.90% to 9.99% for Fmax. Maximal force, expressed as an absolute or normalised value, reveals a significant difference between all samples (22.11% difference between international and 38.58% between skilled and non-climbers). Finally, the difference in RFD and RFD among the three groups suggests that the practice of intensive climbing causes many changes in neural and structural factors. Last, RFD and RFD are highly reliable and can be used to discriminate samples, suggesting that these variables could be used in monitoring training.
(i) 不同时间段内各测试组间及组内测试的可重复性;(ii) 三种不同水平(国际级攀登者=12 分,熟练级攀登者=10 分,非攀登者=9 分)的手指屈肌最大力(Fmax)和力发展速率(RFD)在不同时间尺度上的差异。每位攀登者在两种不同条件下(半握和斜握)在测力计上进行最大手指弯曲。组间结果显示出低至高的相关性(0.56 至 0.94),无显著差异。组内结果显示,所有组的组内相关系数范围为 0.40 至 0.98。RFD 的变异系数范围为 7.77%至 28.34%,Fmax 的变异系数范围为 2.90%至 9.99%。以绝对值或归一化值表示的最大力,在所有样本之间存在显著差异(国际级攀登者与熟练级攀登者之间的差异为 22.11%,熟练级攀登者与非攀登者之间的差异为 38.58%)。最后,三组之间的 RFD 和 RFD 差异表明,密集攀爬练习会引起神经和结构因素的许多变化。最后,RFD 和 RFD 具有高度可靠性,可用于区分样本,表明这些变量可用于监测训练。