Zhang Guangyan, Bao Chenhui, Fu Kaiqiao, Lin Yaolin, Li Tianlong, Yang Huping
Hubei Provincial Key Laboratory of Green Materials for Light Industry, Hubei University of Technology, Wuhan 430068, China.
Guangzhou KLD New Material Technology Co., Ltd., Guangzhou 510425, China.
Polymers (Basel). 2020 Feb 2;12(2):294. doi: 10.3390/polym12020294.
1,4-dioxane should be less than or equal to 10 ppm in finished cosmetic products according to the recommendation of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, but it is often generated as a by-product during the manufacturing process of poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG)-based derivatives. In order to avoid the possible risk caused by 1,4-dioxane, it might be a good choice for preparing cosmetic ingredients by using polyglycerin (PG) instead of PEG as a hydrophilic segment. In the present study, polyglyceryl-10 caprylates were synthesized by the esterification reaction between polyglycerin-10 and caprylic acid. FTIR and H NMR were utilized to confirm the chemical structures of the obtained polyglyceryl-10 caprylates. Light transmittance was availed to investigate the water solubility of polyglyceryl-10 caprylates. The self-assembly behavior, size, and size distribution of polyglyceryl-10 caprylates were investigated by dynamic light scattering. The makeup cleansing effect was also evaluated by in vitro and in vivo methods. Irritation was evaluated by hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane assay (HET-CAM). Results showed that polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate could self-assemble into nanoparticles in the water at the concentration range of 2.5-10 wt% with a transparent appearance. The diameter of formed nanoparticles was around 100 nm with a narrow particle size distribution around 0.1 at the concentration of 2.5 wt% or 5 wt%. Polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate exhibited good removal effect against makeup and excellent removal efficacy against pen eyeliner. The irritation of polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate evaluated by HET-CAM at the concentration of 4 wt% was moderate irritant (irritation score = 8.4), which was lower than that of PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides (severe irritant, irritation score = 14.1). Therefore, polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate might be a promising cosmetic ingredient for transparent makeup removing water.
根据消费者安全科学委员会的建议，成品化妆品中1,4 - 二恶烷的含量应小于或等于10 ppm，但在聚乙二醇（PEG）基衍生物的制造过程中，它常作为副产物产生。为了避免1,4 - 二恶烷可能带来的风险，使用聚甘油（PG）代替PEG作为亲水链段来制备化妆品成分可能是个不错的选择。在本研究中，通过聚甘油 - 10与辛酸之间的酯化反应合成了聚甘油 - 10辛酸酯。利用傅里叶变换红外光谱（FTIR）和核磁共振氢谱（H NMR）来确认所得到的聚甘油 - 10辛酸酯的化学结构。利用透光率来研究聚甘油 - 10辛酸酯的水溶性。通过动态光散射研究聚甘油 - 10辛酸酯的自组装行为、尺寸和尺寸分布。还通过体外和体内方法评估了卸妆效果。通过鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验（HET - CAM）评估刺激性。结果表明，聚甘油 - 10单辛酸酯在2.5 - 10 wt%的浓度范围内可在水中自组装成纳米颗粒，外观透明。在2.5 wt%或5 wt%的浓度下，形成的纳米颗粒直径约为100 nm，粒径分布窄，分散系数约为0.1。聚甘油 - 10单辛酸酯对彩妆表现出良好的去除效果，对眼线笔的去除效果极佳。通过HET - CAM评估，4 wt%浓度的聚甘油 - 10单辛酸酯的刺激性为中度刺激（刺激评分为8.4），低于PEG - 6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯（重度刺激，刺激评分为14.1）。因此，聚甘油 - 10单辛酸酯可能是一种有前途的用于透明卸妆水的化妆品成分。
