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化妆品用阿甘油的脂肪酸组成:产地和真伪标准。

Fatty Acid Composition of Cosmetic Argan Oil: Provenience and Authenticity Criteria.

机构信息

Science and Research Centre Koper, Institute for Olive Culture, 6000 Koper, Slovenia.

Centre National De L'énergie, Des Sciences Et Techniques Nucleaires, Rabat 10001, Morocco.

出版信息

Molecules. 2020 Sep 7;25(18):4080. doi: 10.3390/molecules25184080.

Abstract

In this work, fatty-acid profiles, including trans fatty acids, in combination with chemometric tools, were applied as a determinant of purity (i.e., adulteration) and provenance (i.e., geographical origin) of cosmetic grade argan oil collected from different regions of Morocco in 2017. The fatty acid profiles obtained by gas chromatography (GC) showed that oleic acid (C18:1) is the most abundant fatty acid, followed by linoleic acid (C18:2) and palmitic acid (C16:0). The content of trans-oleic and trans-linoleic isomers was between 0.02% and 0.03%, while trans-linolenic isomers were between 0.06% and 0.09%. Discriminant analysis (DA) and orthogonal projection to latent structure-discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA) were performed to discriminate between argan oils from Essaouira, Taroudant, Tiznit, Chtouka-Aït Baha and Sidi Ifni. The correct classification rate was highest for argan oil from the Chtouka-Aït Baha province (90.0%) and the lowest for oils from the Sidi Ifni province (14.3%), with an overall correct classification rate of 51.6%. Pairwise comparison using OPLS-DA could predictably differentiate (≥0.92) between the geographical regions with the levels of stearic (C18:0) and arachidic (C20:0) fatty acids accounting for most of the variance. This study shows the feasibility of implementing authenticity criteria for argan oils by including limit values for trans-fatty acids and the ability to discern provenance using fatty acid profiling.

摘要

本工作采用脂肪酸谱(包括反式脂肪酸)结合化学计量学工具,分析 2017 年摩洛哥不同地区采集的化妆品级阿甘油的纯度(即掺伪)和产地(即地理来源)。气相色谱(GC)得到的脂肪酸谱表明,油酸(C18:1)是最丰富的脂肪酸,其次是亚油酸(C18:2)和棕榈酸(C16:0)。反式油酸和反式亚油酸异构体的含量在 0.02%至 0.03%之间,而反式亚麻酸异构体的含量在 0.06%至 0.09%之间。判别分析(DA)和正交偏最小二乘判别分析(OPLS-DA)用于区分埃萨乌伊拉、塔鲁丹特、提兹尼特、切图阿伊特巴哈和西迪伊夫尼的阿甘油。切图阿伊特巴哈省的阿甘油正确分类率最高(90.0%),西迪伊夫尼省的阿甘油最低(14.3%),总体正确分类率为 51.6%。使用 OPLS-DA 的成对比较可以预测性地区分(≥0.92)地理区域,其中硬脂酸(C18:0)和花生酸(C20:0)的水平占大部分方差。本研究表明,通过包括反式脂肪酸的限量值和使用脂肪酸谱来辨别产地,可以实现阿甘油真实性标准的可行性。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/ef10/7570657/a57d97033168/molecules-25-04080-g001.jpg

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