Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Martyna Zagórska-Dziok, Aleksandra Ziemlewska, Tomasz Bujak
Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Kielnarowa 386a, 36-020 Tyczyn, Poland.
Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2020 Sep 9;2020:5307614. doi: 10.1155/2020/5307614. eCollection 2020.
Plant materials play a very significant role as components of products being used both for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Due to the high content of active substances, they can play an important role as extracts with antioxidant, regenerative, and antiaging properties. The skin aging process depends on various pathological and physiological processes, among which the degradation of extracellular matrix biomolecules such as collagen and elastin, which significantly affect the maintenance of good skin condition, is very important. The secondary metabolites and plant extracts may have collagenase and elastase inhibitory activity. This activity is mainly due to the high content of a wide range of various biologically active compounds, such as polyphenols, which include, among others, flavonoids, phenolic acids, tocopherols, and tannins. The work involved a comprehensive assessment of the plant from family such as , L., and extract as a multifunctional raw material. During study antioxidant properties, phenolic compounds and flavonoids content, effect on collagenase and elastase enzyme activity (antiaging effect), cytotoxic properties on skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts), and cell migration capacity were analyzed. It has been shown that the highest antioxidant capacity can be observed for the extract of herb of . When the concentration reached 5% all tested extracts had a positive effect on the cell proliferation of both keratinocytes and fibroblasts. It turned out that the most promising inhibitor of collagenase and elastase enzymes was the extract from , which inhibits the activity of both enzymes by over 70% in the concentration of 5% positively affecting the condition of skin cells.
植物材料作为用于医药和化妆品目的产品的成分发挥着非常重要的作用。由于其活性物质含量高，它们作为具有抗氧化、再生和抗衰老特性的提取物可发挥重要作用。皮肤衰老过程取决于各种病理和生理过程，其中细胞外基质生物分子如胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白的降解对维持良好的皮肤状况有显著影响，这一点非常重要。次生代谢产物和植物提取物可能具有胶原酶和弹性蛋白酶抑制活性。这种活性主要归因于多种生物活性化合物的高含量，例如多酚，其中包括黄酮类化合物、酚酸、生育酚和单宁。这项工作涉及对来自[具体植物科属]的植物如[具体植物名称1]、[具体植物名称2]提取物作为多功能原材料进行全面评估。在研究过程中，分析了抗氧化性能、酚类化合物和黄酮类化合物含量、对胶原酶和弹性蛋白酶活性的影响（抗衰老作用）、对皮肤细胞（角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞）的细胞毒性特性以及细胞迁移能力。结果表明，[具体植物名称1]的草药提取物具有最高的抗氧化能力。当浓度达到5%时，所有测试提取物对角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞的细胞增殖均有积极影响。结果发现，最有前景的胶原酶和弹性蛋白酶抑制剂是[具体植物名称2]的提取物，其在5%的浓度下对两种酶的活性抑制率超过70%，对皮肤细胞状况有积极影响。
