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美味的颠覆:植物奶的政治

Palatable disruption: the politics of plant milk.

作者信息

Clay Nathan, Sexton Alexandra E, Garnett Tara, Lorimer Jamie

机构信息

School of Geography and the Environment, University of Oxford, South Parks Road, Oxford, OX1 3QY UK.

Food Climate Research Network, Oxford, UK.

出版信息

Agric Human Values. 2020;37(4):945-962. doi: 10.1007/s10460-020-10022-y. Epub 2020 Jan 30.

Abstract

Plant-based milk alternatives-or -have surged in popularity over the past ten years. We consider the politics and consumer subjectivities fostered by mylks as part of the broader trend towards 'plant-based' food. We demonstrate how mylk companies inherit and strategically deploy positive framings of milk as wholesome and convenient, as well as negative framings of dairy as environmentally damaging and cruel, to position plant-based as the 'better' alternative. By navigating this affective landscape, brands attempt to (re)make mylk as simultaneously palatable and disruptive to the status quo. We examine the politics of mylks through the concept of , where people are encouraged to care about the environment, health, and animal welfare enough to adopt mylks but to ultimately remain consumers of a commodity food. By encouraging consumers to reach for "plant-based" as a way to cope with environmental catastrophe and a life out of balance, mylks promote a neoliberal ethic: they individualize systemic problems and further entrench market mechanisms as solutions, thereby reinforcing the political economy of industrial agriculture. In conclusion, we reflect on the limits of the current plant-based trend for transitioning to more just and sustainable food production and consumption.

摘要

在过去十年中,植物基牛奶替代品——即植物奶——的受欢迎程度激增。我们将植物奶所催生的政治因素和消费者主体性视为“植物基”食品这一更广泛趋势的一部分。我们展示了植物奶公司如何继承并战略性地运用对牛奶的正面表述,如有益健康且方便,以及对乳制品的负面表述,如对环境有害且残忍,从而将植物基产品定位为“更好”的选择。通过在这种情感环境中运作,各品牌试图让植物奶既美味可口,又能对现状形成冲击。我们通过“关怀伦理”的概念来审视植物奶的政治因素,在这种观念下,人们被鼓励关注环境、健康和动物福利,从而选择植物奶,但最终仍只是商品食品的消费者。通过鼓励消费者选择“植物基”产品来应对环境灾难和失衡的生活,植物奶推广了一种新自由主义伦理:它们将系统性问题个体化,并进一步巩固市场机制作为解决方案,从而强化了工业化农业的政治经济。总之,我们思考了当前植物基趋势在向更公正、可持续的食品生产和消费转型方面的局限性。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/4c47/7644520/23526147a50a/10460_2020_10022_Fig1_HTML.jpg

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