Matsui Mary S, Hsia Andrew, Miller Janine D, Hanneman Kaija, Scull Heather, Cooper Kevin D, Baron Elma
The Clinique Laboratories, New York, NY, USA.
J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2009 Aug;14(1):56-9. doi: 10.1038/jidsymp.2009.14.
The association between ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure and both skin cancer and photo-aging is well documented. In addition to the conventional organic-chemical and physical-mineral type sunscreens, other non-sunscreen protective strategies have been developed. These include topically applied botanical extracts and other antioxidants as well as topical DNA repair enzymes. Standard terms of photoprotection such as sun protection factor (SPF) do not accurately reflect the photoprotection benefits of these materials. For example, in spite of minimal SPF, tea extract containing polyphenols such as (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) has been shown to protect against UV-induced DNA damage and immune suppression, in part through its ability to reduce oxidative stress and inhibit NF-kB. The addition of botanical antioxidants and vitamins C and E to a broad-spectrum sunscreen may further decrease UV-induced damage compared with sunscreen alone. These agents have been shown to enhance protection against UV-induced epidermal thickening, overexpression of MMP-1and MMP-9, and depletion of CD1a(+) Langerhans cells. Non-sunscreen materials such as botanical extracts, antioxidants, and DNA repair enzymes can contribute value when applied topically to human skin in vivo.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 56-59; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.14.
紫外线辐射(UVR)暴露与皮肤癌和光老化之间的关联已有充分记录。除了传统的有机化学和物理矿物型防晒霜外,还开发了其他非防晒霜保护策略。这些包括局部应用的植物提取物和其他抗氧化剂以及局部DNA修复酶。防晒系数(SPF)等标准光保护术语并不能准确反映这些材料的光保护益处。例如,尽管SPF值很低,但含有诸如(-)-表没食子儿茶素-3-没食子酸酯(EGCG)等多酚的茶提取物已被证明可以预防紫外线诱导的DNA损伤和免疫抑制,部分原因是其具有降低氧化应激和抑制核因子-κB的能力。与单独使用防晒霜相比,在广谱防晒霜中添加植物抗氧化剂以及维生素C和E可能会进一步减少紫外线诱导的损伤。这些物质已被证明可以增强对紫外线诱导的表皮增厚、基质金属蛋白酶-1(MMP-1)和基质金属蛋白酶-9(MMP-9)过表达以及CD1a(+)朗格汉斯细胞耗竭的防护作用。植物提取物、抗氧化剂和DNA修复酶等非防晒霜材料在局部应用于人体皮肤时具有一定价值。《皮肤病学研究杂志研讨会论文集》(2009年)14卷,第56 - 59页;doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.14