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上半身力量发展速率和最大力量可区分运动攀岩的表现水平。

Upper body rate of force development and maximal strength discriminates performance levels in sport climbing.

机构信息

Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway.

出版信息

PLoS One. 2021 Mar 26;16(3):e0249353. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0249353. eCollection 2021.

Abstract

The aim of this study was to assess and compare the maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced and elite climbers using several different methods for calculating RFD. Fifty-seven male climbers (17 intermediate, 25 advanced, and 15 elite) performed isometric pull-ups on a climbing-specific hold while the RFD was calculated using several absolute (50, 100, 150, 200, and 250 ms from onset of force) and relative time periods (25, 50, 75, 95, and 100% of time to peak force). The maximal force was higher among elite climbers compared to advanced (ES = 1.78, p < 0.001) and intermediate climbers (ES = 1.77, p < 0.001), while no difference was observed between intermediate and advanced climbers (P = 0.898). The elite group also showed higher RFD than the other two groups at all relative time periods (ES = 1.02-1.58, p < 0.001-0.002), whereas the absolute time periods only revealed differences between the elite vs. the other groups at 50, 100 and 150 ms from the onset of force (ES = 0.72-0.84, p = 0.032-0.040). No differences in RFD were observed between the intermediate and advanced groups at any time period (p = 0.942-1.000). Maximal force and RFD, especially calculated using the longer periods of the force curve, may be used to distinguish elite climbers from advanced and intermediate climbers. The authors suggest using relative rather than absolute time periods when analyzing the RFD of climbers.

摘要

本研究旨在使用几种不同的 RFD 计算方法评估和比较中级、高级和精英攀岩者之间的最大力和力发展速率(RFD)。57 名男性攀岩者(17 名中级、25 名高级和 15 名精英)在特定于攀岩的握把上进行等距引体向上,同时使用几种绝对(50、100、150、200 和 250 ms 从力开始)和相对时间段(25、50、75、95 和 100%达到峰值力的时间)计算 RFD。与高级(ES = 1.78,p < 0.001)和中级(ES = 1.77,p < 0.001)攀岩者相比,精英攀岩者的最大力更高,而中级和高级攀岩者之间没有差异(P = 0.898)。在所有相对时间段内,精英组的 RFD 也高于其他两组(ES = 1.02-1.58,p < 0.001-0.002),而绝对时间段仅在 50、100 和 150 ms 从力开始时显示出精英与其他两组之间的差异(ES = 0.72-0.84,p = 0.032-0.040)。在任何时间段内,中级和高级组之间的 RFD 没有差异(p = 0.942-1.000)。最大力和 RFD,特别是使用较长时间段的力曲线计算得出的最大力和 RFD,可用于区分精英和高级和中级攀岩者。作者建议在分析攀岩者的 RFD 时使用相对时间段而不是绝对时间段。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/c99e/7997018/91c0a54c4fbe/pone.0249353.g001.jpg

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