铁皮石斛发酵液作为化妆品功能性原料的性能研究。

Study on the properties of Dendrobiumofficinale fermentation broth as functional raw material of cosmetics.

作者信息

Lin Yuanyuan, Yang Ting, Shen Luoyi, Zhang Jie, Liu Liping

机构信息

College of Biological & Environmental Sciences, Zhejiang Wanli University, Ningbo, China.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Mar;21(3):1216-1223. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14197. Epub 2021 Jun 15.

DOI:10.1111/jocd.14197

PMID:33934479

Abstract

BACKGROUND

With the trend that cosmetics containing natural extracts are favored by consumers, many natural herbs are used in cosmetics to enhance the moisturizing and whitening properties of cosmetics. Dendrobium officinale is the stem of the orchid Dendrobium officinale. In China, it is considered as a tonic beneficial to human health. Its main components are Dendrobium polysaccharides, alkaloids, phenanthrene, etc. Its extract has good skin coating comfort and has the potential to be developed as cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibitory activity, and ultraviolet absorption capacity of the fermentation extract of Dendrobium officinale fermented by different microorganisms, so as to provide the basis for Dendrobium officinale as functional cosmetic raw materials.

METHODS

The fermentation of Dendrobium officinale was carried out by yeast, Lactobacillus, Bacillus subtilis, and the mixed bacteria (prepared according to the mass ratio of 1:1:1). Compared with the non-fermentation group, the contents of polysaccharides, flavonoids, and polyphenols in the fermentation broth of Dendrobium officinale were determined by spectrophotometry, and the antioxidant activity to common free radicals, inhibition to tyrosinase, and absorption to ultraviolet B were determined.

RESULTS

The fermentation effect of mixed strains on Dendrobium officinale was better than that of a single strain. The content of polysaccharide decreased, while the content of flavonoids and polyphenols increased in the fermentation broth of Dendrobium officinale. With the extension of fermentation time, the scavenging rate of ·OH, DPPH, ABTS free radical, the inhibition rate of tyrosinase, and the absorption of ultraviolet B of Dendrobium officinale fermentation broth first increased (0-3 days), and then decreased (4 days). On the third day of mixed fermentation, the contents of polysaccharides, flavonoids, and polyphenols in the fermentation broth of Dendrobium officinale were - 22.15%, + 118.20%, and +128.17%, respectively. The scavenging rate of ·OH, DPPH, ABTS free radical, tyrosinase inhibition rate and SPF value were increased by 43.03%, 60.05%, 94.87%, 340.85%, and 31.73%, respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

The fermentation broth of Dendrobium officinale is superior to the non-fermentation group in active ingredients, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and ultraviolet B absorption. It has the potential as a functional cosmetic raw material.

摘要

背景

随着含天然提取物的化妆品受到消费者青睐的趋势，许多天然草本植物被用于化妆品中以增强其保湿和美白性能。铁皮石斛是兰科植物铁皮石斛的茎。在中国，它被视为对人体健康有益的滋补品。其主要成分有石斛多糖、生物碱、菲类等。其提取物具有良好的皮肤涂抹舒适性，有作为化妆品原料开发的潜力。

目的

研究不同微生物发酵的铁皮石斛发酵提取物的抗氧化活性、酪氨酸酶抑制活性及紫外线吸收能力，为铁皮石斛作为功能性化妆品原料提供依据。

方法

采用酵母、乳酸菌、枯草芽孢杆菌及混合菌（按质量比1:1:1配制）对铁皮石斛进行发酵。采用分光光度法测定铁皮石斛发酵液中多糖、黄酮、多酚的含量，与未发酵组比较，并测定其对常见自由基的抗氧化活性、对酪氨酸酶的抑制作用及对紫外线B的吸收情况。

结果

混合菌株对铁皮石斛的发酵效果优于单一菌株。铁皮石斛发酵液中多糖含量降低，黄酮和多酚含量增加。随着发酵时间延长，铁皮石斛发酵液对·OH、DPPH、ABTS自由基的清除率、酪氨酸酶抑制率及紫外线B的吸收率先升高（0 - 3天），后降低（4天）。混合发酵第3天，铁皮石斛发酵液中多糖、黄酮、多酚含量分别为 - 22.15%、+ 118.20%、+ 128.17%。·OH、DPPH、ABTS自由基清除率、酪氨酸酶抑制率及防晒因子值分别提高了43.03%、60.05%、94.87%、340.85%、31.73%。