Poljšak Nina, Kočevar Glavač Nina
Department of Pharmaceutical Biology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Ljubljana, Ljubljana, Slovenia.
Front Pharmacol. 2022 Apr 25;13:868461. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2022.868461. eCollection 2022.
While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, , tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil's use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin's structural integrity.
虽然人们已经对植物黄油和油类的化学成分进行了详细研究，但对于它们涂抹在皮肤上后的作用机制却知之甚少。为了更好地了解它们对皮肤的影响，本研究回顾了27项评估17种植物油（杏仁油、阿甘油、鳄梨油、琉璃苣油、椰子油、月见草油、库库伊油、马鲁拉油、芥子油、印楝油、橄榄油、菜籽油、印加果油、红花油、乳木果油、大豆油和向日葵油）的临床研究。这些被回顾的研究聚焦于未受影响的皮肤、婴儿皮肤、银屑病、皮肤干燥症、紫外线诱导的红斑、特应性皮炎、穿皮潜蚤病、疤痕、妊娠纹和萎缩纹。我们得出结论，在受炎症影响的皮肤中，油酸含量高且亚油酸含量低或缺乏的植物油可能会导致角质层额外的结构损伤，而亚油酸和饱和脂肪酸含量高的油可能会表现出积极作用。相比之下，未受影响的皮肤可能不会对油酸含量高的油产生负面反应。然而，油类使用的频率和持续时间必须被视为一个可能加速或增强对皮肤结构完整性产生负面影响的重要因素。
