Marcen-Cinca Noel, Sanchez Xavier, Otin Sofia, Cimarras-Otal Cristina, Bataller-Cervero Ana Vanessa
Department of Health Sciences, Universidad San Jorge, Villanueva de Gállego, Spain.
Université d'Orléans, Complexité, Innovation et Activités Motrices et Sportives (CIAMS), Orléans, France.
Front Psychol. 2022 Jul 14;13:903518. doi: 10.3389/fpsyg.2022.903518. eCollection 2022.
The purpose of the present study was to examine the visual perception system in expert climbers through a psychophysical optical test in a cross-sectional study. Twenty-seven male participants with an International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) best on-sight lead skill level ranging between 18 and 27 and a best red-point level ranging between 18 and 29 completed a series of psychophysical optic tests assessing their visual field, visual acuity, and contrast sensitivity. Climbers were divided by their best red-pointed lead level, and, following IRCRA recommendations, two groups were created: an advanced group (IRCRA redpoint level between 18 and 23), and an elite-high elite group (IRCRA redpoint level between 24 and 29). The elite group presented more training days per week (5.25 ± 1.28), best on-sighted lead level (24.63 ± 1.92 IRCRA), and best red-pointed lead level (26.63 ± 2.56 IRCRA) than the advanced group (3.67 ± 0.91 training days per week, 19.50 ± 1.04 IRCRA on-sighted level and 20.67 ± 1.57 IRCRA red-pointed level). Better visual perception outputs were produced by the group of elite climbers in visual field tests; no differences were observed between the two groups for visual acuity and contrast sensitivity tests. Overall, findings indicate that best climbers performed better at the visual perception tasks that tested their visual field. Such better perception from best climbers is discussed given (1) the greater time they spend coercing the visual system during practicing climbing and (2) the specific complexity of the stimuli as they are confronted to harder routes where holds are less perceptible and the time to find best hold sequences is constrained.
本研究的目的是通过一项横断面研究中的心理物理学光学测试，来检测专业攀岩者的视觉感知系统。27名男性参与者完成了一系列心理物理学视觉测试，评估他们的视野、视力和对比敏感度。这些参与者均具有国际攀岩研究协会（IRCRA）认定的最佳红点先锋攀登技能水平，年龄在18至27岁之间，最佳红点攀登水平在18至29之间。攀岩者根据他们的最佳红点先锋攀登水平进行分组，按照IRCRA的建议，分为两组：高级组（IRCRA红点水平在18至23之间）和精英 - 高精英组（IRCRA红点水平在24至29之间）。与高级组相比，精英组每周的训练天数更多（5.25 ± 1.28），最佳红点先锋攀登水平更高（IRCRA为24.63 ± 1.92），最佳红点攀登水平更高（IRCRA为26.63 ± 2.56）（高级组每周训练天数为3.67 ± 0.91，IRCRA红点水平为20.67 ± 1.57，最佳红点先锋攀登水平为19.50 ± 1.04）。在视野测试中，精英攀岩者组产生了更好的视觉感知输出；在视力和对比敏感度测试中，两组之间未观察到差异。总体而言，研究结果表明，最佳攀岩者在测试其视野的视觉感知任务中表现更好。鉴于（1）他们在攀岩练习中强迫视觉系统的时间更长，以及（2）他们面对更难的路线时刺激的特定复杂性，即支点更难察觉，寻找最佳支点序列的时间受到限制，对最佳攀岩者的这种更好感知进行了讨论。
