Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland.
Department of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Pomeranian Medical University in Szczecin, 70-111 Szczecin, Poland.
Int J Mol Sci. 2024 Apr 27;25(9):4763. doi: 10.3390/ijms25094763.
Plant extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active compounds in many cosmetic preparations. Their effect depends on the phytochemicals they contain and their ability to penetrate the skin. Therefore, in this study, the possibility of skin penetration by phenolic acids contained in dogwood extracts of different fruit colors (yellow, red, and dark ruby red) prepared using different extractants was investigated. These analyses were performed using a Franz chamber and HPLC-UV chromatography. Moreover, the antioxidant properties of the tested extracts were compared and their impact on the intracellular level of free radicals in skin cells was assessed. The cytotoxicity of these extracts towards keratinocytes and fibroblasts was also analyzed and their anti-inflammatory properties were assessed using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). The analyses showed differences in the penetration of individual phenolic acids into the skin and different biological activities of the tested extracts. None of the extracts had cytotoxic effects on skin cells in vitro, and the strongest antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties were found in dogwood extracts with dark ruby red fruits.
植物提取物可以成为许多化妆品制剂中具有生物活性化合物的宝贵来源。其效果取决于它们所含的植物化学物质及其穿透皮肤的能力。因此，在这项研究中，研究了使用不同提取剂制备的不同颜色果实（黄色、红色和深红宝石红色）的山茱萸提取物中所含的酚酸进入皮肤的可能性。使用 Franz 室和 HPLC-UV 色谱法进行了这些分析。此外，还比较了测试提取物的抗氧化特性，并评估了它们对皮肤细胞内自由基水平的影响。还分析了这些提取物对角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞的细胞毒性，并使用酶联免疫吸附测定（ELISA）评估了它们的抗炎特性。分析表明，个别酚酸进入皮肤的渗透情况和测试提取物的生物学活性存在差异。在体外，没有一种提取物对皮肤细胞有细胞毒性作用，而在深红宝石红色果实的山茱萸提取物中发现了最强的抗氧化和抗炎特性。
