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发酵茶叶提取物对皮肤氧化应激和衰老的体外及体内作用

Fermented tea leave extract against oxidative stress and ageing of skin in vitro and in vivo.

作者信息

Wang Gai-Xiang, Fei Wei-Cheng, Zhi Lei-Lei, Bai Xue-Dong, You Bing

机构信息

RNW Co., Ltd, Shanghai, China.

R&D Center of Shanghai Huiwen Biotech Co., Ltd, Shanghai, China.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025 Feb;47(1):1-17. doi: 10.1111/ics.12976. Epub 2024 Aug 9.

Abstract

OBJECTIVE

The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with Eurotium cristatum PLT-PE and Saccharomyces boulardii PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.

METHODS

We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using HO-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.

RESULTS

Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in HO-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit HO-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.

CONCLUSION

This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.

摘要

目的

开发一种天然且稳定的抗氧化应激和抗衰老成分。在本研究中,我们评估了用冠突散囊菌PLT - PE和布拉酵母菌PLT - HZ发酵的白茶叶的变化及其对皮肤氧化应激的功效。

方法

我们采用非靶向代谢组学技术分析茶提取物(TE)和发酵茶提取物(FTE)之间的差异代谢物。在体外,使用过氧化氢诱导的HaCaT细胞,我们评估了细胞活力、活性氧和炎症因子(肿瘤坏死因子-α、白细胞介素-1β和白细胞介素-6)。此外,我们使用成纤维细胞或重建皮肤模型验证了对细胞外基质和核DNA的影响。在志愿者使用含3% FTE的乳液28天和56天后,我们测量了皮肤水分、弹性皱纹面积、皱纹面积比、红斑面积和红斑面积比。

结果

对白茶叶进行靶向代谢组学分析产生了20多种具有抗氧化和抗炎活性的差异代谢物,包括发酵后的氨基酸、多肽、槲皮素和甘草苷。与TE相比,FTE可以显著降低活性氧(ROS),并保护过氧化氢诱导的HaCaT细胞免受氧化应激诱导的皮肤损伤。FTE可以通过抑制丝裂原活化蛋白激酶/c - Jun信号通路抑制过氧化氢诱导的胶原蛋白降解,还可以减轻活性氧对核DNA的损伤。临床研究表明,在使用FTE 28天和56天后,志愿者的角质层含水量、皮肤弹性、皱纹面积、皱纹面积比、红斑面积和红斑面积比与基线相比有显著改善。

结论

本研究为支持发酵植物提取物对皮肤氧化应激和衰老具有保护作用的文献增添了内容。此外,我们的发现可能会激发多学科努力去研究能够产生更有效抗衰老解决方案的新发酵技术。

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