Draelos Zoe Diana, DiNardo Joseph C
Department of Dermatology, Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, North Carolina, USA.
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006 Mar;54(3):507-12. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058.
Comedogenicity is an important consideration in the development of topical medications, cosmetics, and skin care products. The concept of "acne cosmetica" was developed to link the use of certain ingredients to comedo formation. Animal models were originally used to determine the comedogenic potential of raw materials with the assumption that finished formulations containing these ingredients would also be comedogenic. Based on this assumption, dermatologists were presented with lists of substances to avoid in patients with the ability to develop comedones.
We sought to use a modification of the Mills and Kligman human assay for assessing comedogenic potential of finished cosmetic products.
Six individuals with prominent follicular orifices and the ability to form comedones on the upper aspect of the back were enrolled. Each person received patches to the upper aspect of the back saturated with 0.2 to 0.5 mL of the finished cosmetic study products 3 times weekly for 4 weeks. Cyanoacrylate biopsies were performed to determine the number of follicles and microcomedones per square inch.
Only a finite number of finished cosmetic products could be analyzed.
Finished products using comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic.
致粉刺性是局部用药物、化妆品及护肤品研发中的一个重要考量因素。“化妆品痤疮”这一概念的提出是为了将某些成分的使用与粉刺形成联系起来。最初使用动物模型来确定原材料的致粉刺潜力，假定含有这些成分的成品配方也会有致粉刺性。基于这一假设，向皮肤科医生提供了一份在有形成粉刺能力的患者中应避免使用的物质清单。
我们试图对米尔斯和克利格曼人体试验进行改良，以评估成品化妆品的致粉刺潜力。
招募了6名毛囊孔明显且背部上方有形成粉刺能力的个体。每人背部上方每周接受3次贴片，贴片上饱和有0.2至0.5毫升成品化妆品研究产品，持续4周。进行氰基丙烯酸酯活检以确定每平方英寸的毛囊和微粉刺数量。
只能分析有限数量的成品化妆品。
使用有致粉刺成分的成品不一定会有致粉刺性。
