Resende Diana I S P, Jesus Ana, Sousa Lobo José M, Sousa Emília, Cruz Maria T, Cidade Honorina, Almeida Isabel F
CIIMAR-Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal.
Laboratório de Química Orgânica e Farmacêutica, Departamento de Ciências Químicas, Faculdade de Farmácia, Universidade do Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal.
Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2022 Mar 18;15(3):372. doi: 10.3390/ph15030372.
The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.
光防护护肤品市场需求旺盛,以满足消费者对紫外线引起的皮肤损伤的担忧,近期呈现出对天然来源防晒替代品的趋势。在本研究中,分析了444种防晒商业配方(2021年)中陆地或海洋来源天然成分的使用情况。陆地生物成分占所分析防晒配方中发现成分的绝大多数(48%),而海洋成分仅存在于13%的所分析产品中。还对用作主要成分的陆地和海洋生物中最普遍的成分家族进行了更深入的分析,以及它们的作用机制。本研究提供了关于天然成分使用的防晒市场的最新概况,这对参与开发新型防晒霜的科学家识别创新机会具有重要意义。