Langton A K, Sherratt M J, Griffiths C E M, Watson R E B
Dermatological Sciences, School of Translational Medicine.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 Oct;32(5):330-9. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x.
Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in the absence of additional biological, chemical and physical factors. The clinical features of intrinsically aged skin are not usually evident until old age when, although smooth and unblemished, the skin surface appears pale and is characterized by fine wrinkles with occasional exaggerated expression lines. Functionally, intrinsically aged skin is dry and less elastic than more youthful skin. In contrast, extrinsically aged skin is exemplified by deep, coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation and a marked loss of elasticity and recoil. The two major environmental influences which induce extrinsic ageing are: (i) chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation (termed photoageing) and (ii) smoking. This review discusses the changes associated with the ageing process in the skin, with particular emphasis on the role played by the elastic fibre network in maintaining dermal function. The review concludes with a discussion of a short-term assay for independent assessment of the efficacy of anti-ageing cosmetic products using the elastic fibre component fibrillin-1 as a biomarker of extracellular matrix repair.
(i)时间的推移,称为内在老化;(ii)环境影响,称为外在老化。皮肤的内在老化是一个缓慢的过程,在没有其他生物、化学和物理因素的情况下,会导致组织结构的变化并损害功能。内在老化皮肤的临床特征通常直到老年才明显,此时皮肤表面虽然光滑无瑕疵,但显得苍白,以细纹和偶尔夸张的表情纹为特征。在功能上,内在老化的皮肤比年轻皮肤更干燥且弹性更小。相比之下,外在老化皮肤的特征是有深的、粗糙的皱纹、斑驳的色素沉着以及明显的弹性和回缩丧失。导致外在老化的两个主要环境影响因素是:(i)长期暴露于太阳紫外线(UV)辐射(称为光老化)和(ii)吸烟。本综述讨论了与皮肤老化过程相关的变化,特别强调了弹性纤维网络在维持真皮功能中所起的作用。综述最后讨论了一种短期检测方法,该方法使用弹性纤维成分原纤蛋白-1作为细胞外基质修复的生物标志物,用于独立评估抗衰老化妆品的功效。