Tran C, Michelet J F, Simonetti L, Fiat F, Garrigues A, Potter A, Segot E, Watson R E B, Griffiths C E M, de Lacharrière O
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Clichy, Aulnay sous Bois, Chevilly-Larue, France.
J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2014 Apr;28(4):415-23. doi: 10.1111/jdv.12113. Epub 2013 May 23.
LR2412, a synthetic derivative of jasmonic acid, improved the reconstruction and homeostasis of our organotypic skin models.
The need for efficient 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photoaged skin, prompted us to investigate this new ingredient for its potential to correct signs of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo and to identify its mode of action.
In vitro, penetration of LR2412 was evaluated using a Franz diffusion cell on excised human skin. Its exfoliating properties and interactions with the stratum corneum were studied using electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Experiments were performed on a human reconstructed skin model. In vivo, the effects of LR2412 on steroid-induced skin atrophy, a clinical skin ageing model, were assessed vs. vehicle. A patch test study evaluated its effect on deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis in clinically photoaged volunteers. A clinical study on the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles was conducted over 3 months of daily application. Penetration studies revealed that LR2412 reaches viable epidermis and superficial dermis, which are skin targets of anti-ageing actives. Within the upper layers of the stratum corneum LR2412 accelerates desquamation and improves the mechanical properties. At the dermal-epidermal junction of reconstructed skin, collagen IV, laminin-5 and fibrillin were stimulated. In vivo, LR2412 reversed steroid-induced atrophy. The patch test model confirms the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils, then an in use clinical study revealed that it reduced facial wrinkles.
The in vitro and in vivo data demonstrate that based on its multiple interactions within human skin, LR2412 has potential to partially correct the signs of ageing in intrinsically and photoaged skin.
LR2412是茉莉酸的一种合成衍生物，可改善我们的器官型皮肤模型的重建和内环境稳定。
对高效“抗老化”治疗的需求，尤其是对光老化皮肤的管理，促使我们研究这种新成分在体外和体内纠正皮肤老化迹象的潜力，并确定其作用方式。
在体外，使用Franz扩散池在切除的人皮肤上评估LR2412的渗透情况。利用电子显微镜和X射线衍射研究其去角质特性以及与角质层的相互作用。在人重建皮肤模型上进行实验。在体内，将LR2412对类固醇诱导的皮肤萎缩（一种临床皮肤老化模型）的影响与赋形剂进行对比评估。一项斑贴试验研究评估了其对临床光老化志愿者乳头真皮中富含原纤维蛋白的微原纤维沉积的影响。进行了一项关于每日使用3个月鱼尾纹外观的临床研究。渗透研究表明，LR2412可到达有活力的表皮和浅表真皮，这些是抗老化活性物质的皮肤靶点。在角质层上层，LR2412可加速脱屑并改善机械性能。在重建皮肤的真皮 - 表皮交界处，IV型胶原蛋白、层粘连蛋白 - 5和原纤维蛋白受到刺激。在体内，LR2412可逆转类固醇诱导的萎缩。斑贴试验模型证实了富含原纤维蛋白的微原纤维的沉积，随后的一项实际使用临床研究表明它可减少面部皱纹。
体外和体内数据表明，基于其在人体皮肤内的多种相互作用，LR2412有潜力部分纠正自然老化和光老化皮肤的老化迹象。
