Seifert Ludovic, Orth Dominic, Boulanger Jérémie, Dovgalecs Vladislavs, Hérault Romain, Davids Keith
CETAPS - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, France.
J Appl Biomech. 2014 Oct;30(5):619-25. doi: 10.1123/jab.2014-0052. Epub 2014 Jul 9.
This study investigated a new performance indicator to assess climbing fluency (smoothness of the hip trajectory and orientation of a climber using normalized jerk coefficients) to explore effects of practice and hold design on performance. Eight experienced climbers completed four repetitions of two, 10-m high routes with similar difficulty levels, but varying in hold graspability (holds with one edge vs holds with two edges). An inertial measurement unit was attached to the hips of each climber to collect 3D acceleration and 3D orientation data to compute jerk coefficients. Results showed high correlations (r = .99, P < .05) between the normalized jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation. Results showed higher normalized jerk coefficients for the route with two graspable edges, perhaps due to more complex route finding and action regulation behaviors. This effect decreased with practice. Jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation could be a useful indicator of climbing fluency for coaches as its computation takes into account both spatial and temporal parameters (ie, changes in both climbing trajectory and time to travel this trajectory).
本研究调查了一种新的性能指标，以评估攀爬流畅性（使用归一化急动系数来衡量攀爬者髋部轨迹的平滑度和方向），以探讨练习和抓握设计对性能的影响。八名经验丰富的攀岩者完成了两条难度相似但抓握难易程度不同（单边缘抓握与双边缘抓握）的10米高路线的四次重复攀爬。在每位攀岩者的髋部附着一个惯性测量单元，以收集三维加速度和三维方向数据，从而计算急动系数。结果显示，髋部轨迹和方向的归一化急动系数之间存在高度相关性（r = 0.99，P < 0.05）。结果表明，具有两个可抓握边缘的路线的归一化急动系数更高，这可能是由于路线寻找和动作调节行为更为复杂。这种影响随着练习而减弱。髋部轨迹和方向的急动系数可能是教练评估攀爬流畅性的有用指标，因为其计算同时考虑了空间和时间参数（即攀爬轨迹的变化以及沿该轨迹移动所需的时间）。
