Deyhle Michael R, Hsu Hung-Sheng, Fairfield Timothy J, Cadez-Schmidt Taryn L, Gurney Burke A, Mermier Christine M
1Department of Health, Exercise, and Sport Science, University of New Mexico, Albuquerque, New Mexico; and 2Department of Orthopedics and Rehabilitation, UNM Health Sciences Center, University of New Mexico, Albuquerque, New Mexico.
J Strength Cond Res. 2015 Jul;29(7):2006-14. doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000000823.
Little research is available to guide training programs for rock climbers. To help meet this need, we sought to determine the relative importance of 4 muscle groups for rock climbing performance. Eleven male climbers were familiarized with an indoor climbing route before 5 separate days of testing. On testing days, subjects were randomly assigned to climb with no prefatiguing exercise (control climb) or after a prefatiguing exercise designed to specifically target the digit flexors (DF), shoulder adductors (SA), elbow flexors (EF), or lumbar flexors (LF). Immediately after the prefatiguing exercise, the subject climbed the route as far as possible without rest until failure. The number of climbing moves was recorded for each climb. Surface electromyography of the target muscles was recorded during the prefatigue. Fewer climbing moves were completed after prefatigue of the DF (50 ± 18%) and EF (78 ± 22%) (p ≤ 0.05) compared with the control climb. The number of moves completed after prefatigue of the LF and SA were not statistically significant compared with the control climb (p > 0.05). The short time lapse between the end of prefatiguing exercise and the start of climbing (transit time), which may have allowed for some recovery, was not different among trials (p > 0.05). Electromyography median frequency was reduced from beginning to end of each prefatiguing exercise. These results suggest that among the muscle groups studied in men, muscular endurance of DF and EF muscle groups is especially important for rock climbing on 40° overhanging terrain.
目前几乎没有研究可用于指导攀岩者的训练计划。为了满足这一需求，我们试图确定4组肌肉群对攀岩表现的相对重要性。11名男性攀岩者在5个不同的测试日之前先熟悉了一条室内攀岩路线。在测试日，受试者被随机分配为在无预疲劳运动的情况下攀爬（对照攀爬），或在经过专门针对指屈肌（DF）、肩内收肌（SA）、肘屈肌（EF）或腰屈肌（LF）的预疲劳运动之后攀爬。预疲劳运动结束后，受试者立即尽可能不间断地攀爬该路线直至失败。记录每次攀爬的攀爬动作数量。在预疲劳期间记录目标肌肉的表面肌电图。与对照攀爬相比，DF（50±18%）和EF（78±22%）预疲劳后完成的攀爬动作更少（p≤0.05）。与对照攀爬相比，LF和SA预疲劳后完成的动作数量无统计学差异（p>0.0５）。预疲劳运动结束至攀爬开始之间的短暂时间间隔（过渡时间）在各试验中无差异（p>0.05），这可能使得有了一些恢复。每次预疲劳运动从开始到结束，肌电图中位频率均降低。这些结果表明，在男性所研究的肌肉群中，DF和EF肌肉群的肌肉耐力对于在40°仰角地形上攀岩尤为重要。
