In Vivo Monitoring of Acute and Intermittent Fatigue in Sport Climbing Using Near-Infrared Spectroscopy Wearable Biosensors.

The objectification of acute fatigue (during isometric muscle contraction) and cumulative fatigue (due to multiple intermittent isometric muscle contractions) plays an important role in sport climbing. The data of 42 participants were used in the study. Climbing performance was operationalized using maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) by performing dead hangs. The test started with an initial measurement of handgrip strength (HGS) followed by three intermittent measurements of CSHT and HGS. During the test, finger flexor muscle oxygen saturation (SmO) was measured using a near-infrared spectroscopy wearable biosensor. Significant reductions in CSHT and HGS could be found ( < 0.001), which indicates that the consecutive maximal isometric holding introduces cumulative fatigue. The reduction in CSHT did not correlate with a reduction in HGS over multiple consecutive maximal dead hangs ( > 0.35). Furthermore, there were no significant differences in initial SmO level, SmO level at termination, SmO recovery, and mean negative slope of the SmO saturation reduction between the different measurements ( > 0.24). Significant differences were found between pre-, termination-, and recovery- (10 s after termination) SmO levels ( < 0.001). Therefore, monitoring acute fatigue using athletes' termination SmO saturation seems promising. By contrast, the measurement of HGS and muscle oxygen metabolism seems inappropriate for monitoring cumulative fatigue during intermittent isometric climbing-specific muscle contractions.