Messire Gatien, Serreau Raphaël, Berteina-Raboin Sabine
Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique ICOA, Université d'Orléans-Pôle de Chimie, UMR CNRS 7311, Rue de Chartres-BP 6759, 45067 Orléans CEDEX 02, France.
Unité de Recherche PSYCOMADD, APHP Université Paris Saclay, Hôpital Paul-Brousse, 12 Avenue Paul Vaillant Couturier, 94804 Villejuif, France.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 Jun 21;12(7):1317. doi: 10.3390/antiox12071317.
Here we have chosen to highlight the main natural molecules extracted from , , and that may possess antioxidant activities of interest for skin protection. The molecules involved in the antioxidant process are, respectively, catechins derivatives, in particular, EGCG, andrographolide, and its derivatives, as well as various curcuminoids. These plants are generally used as beverages for (tea tree), as dietary supplements, or as spices. The molecules they contain are known for their diverse therapeutic activities, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cancer, antidiabetic, and dermatological treatment. Their common antioxidant activities and therapeutic applications are widely documented, but their use in cosmetics is more recent. We will see that the use of pharmacomodulated derivatives, the addition of co-antioxidants, and the use of various formulations enable better skin penetration and greater ingredient stability. In this review, we will endeavor to compile the cosmetic uses of these natural molecules of interest and the various structural modulations reported with the aim of improving their bioavailability as well as establishing their different mechanisms of action.
在此,我们选择重点介绍从[具体植物1]、[具体植物2]和[具体植物3]中提取的主要天然分子,这些分子可能具有对皮肤保护有益的抗氧化活性。参与抗氧化过程的分子分别是儿茶素衍生物,特别是表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯(EGCG)、穿心莲内酯及其衍生物,以及各种姜黄素类化合物。这些植物通常被用作[茶树用途]的饮品、膳食补充剂或香料。它们所含的分子以其多样的治疗活性而闻名,包括抗炎、抗菌、抗癌、抗糖尿病和皮肤病治疗。它们常见的抗氧化活性和治疗应用已有广泛记载,但在化妆品中的应用则较为新颖。我们将看到,使用药物调制衍生物、添加协同抗氧化剂以及采用各种配方能够实现更好的皮肤渗透和更高的成分稳定性。在这篇综述中,我们将努力汇编这些天然分子在化妆品中的用途以及所报道的各种结构调制方法,目的是提高它们的生物利用度并确定其不同的作用机制。