Brown Anthony, Furmanczyk Marta, Ramos David, Ribes Adrià, Pons Laia, Bustos Javier, de Henestrosa Antonio R Fernández, Granger Corinne, Jourdan Eric
Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain.
Stella Polaris Europe, Paris, France.
Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023 Oct;13(10):2299-2317. doi: 10.1007/s13555-023-01004-z. Epub 2023 Aug 24.
Plants are a source of natural ingredients with retinol-like properties that can deliver anti-aging benefits without the side effects typically associated with retinoid use. We hypothesized that by combining two such analogs, bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), with the potent retinoid retinal (RAL), the anti-photoaging potential of RAL could be enhanced without compromising its skin irritation profile. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate that BAK and VAE potentiate the anti-photoaging activity of RAL.
Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients.
In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated.
These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.
植物是具有视黄醇样特性的天然成分来源，能带来抗老化益处且无通常与类视黄醇使用相关的副作用。我们假设，通过将两种此类类似物，即补骨脂酚（BAK）和绿豆提取物（VAE），与强效类视黄醇视黄醛（RAL）相结合，RAL的抗光老化潜力可以增强，同时不影响其皮肤刺激性。本研究的目的是证明BAK和VAE可增强RAL的抗光老化活性。
首先使用全层重建皮肤的基因表达谱分析来研究BAK或VAE与RAL联合使用对皮肤生物学的影响。接下来，评估这种组合的刺激潜力及其在体外模型中逆转光老化关键迹象的能力。最后，进行了一项概念验证开放标签临床研究，以评估含有这种复合物并与其他特征明确的抗光老化成分组合的化妆品配方（三视黄醇复合物；3RC）的抗光老化能力和皮肤相容性。
体外分析表明，将0.1%的RAL与BAK或VAE结合使用可增强RAL对角质形成细胞分化和皮肤屏障功能的作用，同时不影响其皮肤刺激性。当与其他抗光老化成分（如烟酰胺和褪黑素）一起配制时，3RC可逆转紫外线辐射引起的真皮细胞外基质结构成分（包括透明质酸和胶原蛋白）的缺陷。在体内，它导致年龄和光损伤临床症状的逆转，每晚使用一次，在28天内观察到皮肤紧致度（+5.6%）、皮肤弹性（+13.9%）、皱纹数量（-43.2%）和肤色均匀度（+7.0%）有统计学意义的改善。值得注意的是，100%的受试者鱼尾纹数量减少。此外，3RC耐受性良好。
这些数据表明，3RC是一种治疗光老化的高效且耐受性良好的方法。
