Rouvrais Céline, Bacqueville Daniel, Bogdanowicz Patrick, Haure Marie-José, Duprat Laure, Coutanceau Christine, Castex-Rizzi Nathalie, Duplan Hélène, Mengeaud Valérie, Bessou-Touya Sandrine
Clinical Skin Research Center.
Department of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017 Feb 2;10:35-42. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S123575. eCollection 2017.
Natural aging of skin tissues, the addition of the cumulative action of the time and radiation exposure result in skin atrophy, wrinkles and degeneration of the extracellular matrix (ECM). The aim of the study was to investigate the beneficial effect of a combination containing retinaldehyde (RAL), delta-tocopherol glucoside (delta-TC) and glycylglycine ole-amide (GGO) and of a dermocosmetic containing the combination.
The protective effect of the combination was assessed through in vitro gene expression of ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated fibroblasts. A skin aging assay using UV light on ex vivo skin samples and a clinical study conducted in 36 women aged from 35 to 55 years with a minimum of level 4 to a maximum of level 6 on the crow's feet photoscale assessed the antiaging effect of the dermocosmetic.
When added to UV-irradiated fibroblasts, the combination substantially improved the ECM in activating the elastin fiber production (, and and ) as well as that of proteins involved in the cellular ECM interactions (, and ). An ex vivo photodamaged human skin model showed that the dermocosmetic formulation containing the combination of the active ingredients protected the elastic network against UV-induced alterations including both elastin and fibrillin-rich fibers in the dermis. A daily application of the dermocosmetic for 2 months on naturally aged skin resulted in a statistically significant improvement (<0.05) of visible signs of aging comprising crow's feet, wrinkles and periocular fine lines. Finally, the formulation was well tolerated.
The dermocosmetic containing RAL, delta-TC and GGO provides a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women aged 35-55 years.
皮肤组织的自然老化、时间的累积作用以及辐射暴露会导致皮肤萎缩、皱纹和细胞外基质（ECM）退化。本研究的目的是探究含有视黄醛（RAL）、δ-生育酚葡糖苷（δ-TC）和甘氨酰甘氨酸油酰胺（GGO）的组合物以及含有该组合物的皮肤美容化妆品的有益效果。
通过紫外线（UV）照射的成纤维细胞的体外基因表达来评估该组合物的保护作用。使用紫外线对离体皮肤样本进行皮肤老化试验，并对36名年龄在35至55岁之间、鱼尾纹照片分级至少为4级至最高为6级的女性进行临床研究，以评估该皮肤美容化妆品的抗老化效果。
当添加到紫外线照射的成纤维细胞中时，该组合物通过激活弹性纤维生成（……以及……）以及参与细胞ECM相互作用的蛋白质生成（……以及……），显著改善了ECM。一个离体光损伤人类皮肤模型表明，含有活性成分组合的皮肤美容化妆品配方可保护弹性网络免受紫外线诱导的改变，包括真皮中的弹性蛋白和富含原纤维蛋白的纤维。在自然老化皮肤上每日使用该皮肤美容化妆品2个月，可使包括鱼尾纹、皱纹和眼周细纹在内的可见老化迹象得到统计学上的显著改善（<0.05）。最后，该配方耐受性良好。
含有RAL、δ-TC和GGO的皮肤美容化妆品在35 - 55岁女性自然老化皮肤的日常护理中具有显著益处。
