Jadach Barbara, Mielcarek Zofia, Osmałek Tomasz
Division of Industrial Pharmacy, Chair and Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Poznan University of Medical Sciences, 3 Rokietnicka, 60-806 Poznan, Poland.
Chair and Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Poznan University of Medical Sciences, 3 Rokietnicka, 60-806 Poznan, Poland.
Curr Issues Mol Biol. 2024 Mar 4;46(3):2043-2070. doi: 10.3390/cimb46030132.
Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage.
胶原蛋白（CLG）属于纤维状蛋白质家族，由左旋α多肽链组成，这些多肽链围绕自身及其轴扭转，形成右手超螺旋。在化学结构上，它主要含有脯氨酸、羟脯氨酸、甘氨酸和羟赖氨酸。它以纤维的形式天然存在于真皮中，为皮肤提供适当的密度和弹性。本综述旨在介绍胶原蛋白的类型、影响其结构的因素及其在人体功能中的特殊作用。此外，还概述了含有胶原蛋白或其衍生物的化妆品、这些产品配方的特点以及使用它们的效果。在整个市场上，有许多含有CLG的化妆品和药妆产品。它们有注射用填充剂的形式，属于最古老的组织填充剂类别；有口服和局部使用的产品，如面霜、凝胶、精华液或美容面膜。分析研究表明，使用含有胶原蛋白或其肽的产品可改善皮肤的总体状况，并通过减少皱纹深度、改善水合作用（口服制剂的情况）、减少经皮水分流失（TEWL）以及提高皮肤密度和弹性来延缓衰老过程。此外，口服生物活性CLG肽对指甲有积极作用，可减少指甲断裂的频率。
