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含没食子酸的美容纺织品的皮肤渗透性及抗氧化作用

Skin penetration and antioxidant effect of cosmeto-textiles with gallic acid.

作者信息

Alonso C, Martí M, Barba C, Lis M, Rubio L, Coderch L

机构信息

Department of Chemical Technology, Advanced Chemical Institute of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), Jordi Girona 18-26, 08034 Barcelona, Spain.

Department of Chemical Technology, Advanced Chemical Institute of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), Jordi Girona 18-26, 08034 Barcelona, Spain.

出版信息

J Photochem Photobiol B. 2016 Mar;156:50-5. doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2016.01.014. Epub 2016 Jan 26.

Abstract

In this work, the antioxidant gallic acid (GA) has been encapsulated in microspheres prepared with poly-ε-caprolactone (PCL) and incorporated into polyamide (PA) obtaining the cosmeto-textile. The topical application of the cosmeto-textile provides a reservoir effect in the skin delivery of GA. The close contact of the cosmeto-textile, containing microsphere-encapsulated GA (ME-GA), with the skin and their corresponding occlusion, may be the main reasons that explain the crossing of active principle (GA) through the skin barrier, located in the stratum corneum, and its penetration into the different compartments of the skin, epidermis and dermis. An ex vivo assessment was performed to evaluate the antioxidant effect of the ME-GA on the stratum corneum (SC) using the thiobarbituric acid-reactive species (TBARS) test. The test is based on a non-invasive ex vivo methodology that evaluates lipid peroxides formed in the outermost layers of the SC from human volunteers after UV radiation to determine the effectiveness of an antioxidant. In this case, a ME-GA cosmeto-textile or ME-GA formulation were applied to the skin in vivo and lipid peroxidation (LPO) in the horny layer were determined after UV irradiation. This methodology may be used as a quality control tool to determine ex vivo the percentage of LPO inhibition on human SC for a variety of antioxidants that are topically applied, in this case GA. Results show that LPO formation was inhibited in human SC when GA was applied directly or embedded in the cosmeto-textile, demonstrating the effectiveness of both applications. The percentage of LPO inhibition obtained after both topical applications was approximately 10% for the cosmeto-textile and 41% for the direct application of microspheres containing GA. This methodology could be used to determine the effectiveness of topically applied antioxidants encapsulated in cosmeto-textiles on human SC.

摘要

在本研究中,抗氧化剂没食子酸(GA)被包裹于用聚ε-己内酯(PCL)制备的微球中,并掺入聚酰胺(PA)以制成美容纺织品。该美容纺织品的局部应用在GA的皮肤递送中提供了储库效应。含有微球包裹GA(ME-GA)的美容纺织品与皮肤的紧密接触及其相应的封闭作用,可能是解释活性成分(GA)穿过位于角质层的皮肤屏障并渗透到皮肤的不同部分(表皮和真皮)的主要原因。进行了一项体外评估,以使用硫代巴比妥酸反应性物质(TBARS)试验评估ME-GA对角质层(SC)的抗氧化作用。该试验基于一种非侵入性的体外方法,该方法评估来自人类志愿者的SC最外层在紫外线辐射后形成的脂质过氧化物,以确定抗氧化剂的有效性。在这种情况下,将ME-GA美容纺织品或ME-GA制剂体内应用于皮肤,并在紫外线照射后测定角质层中的脂质过氧化(LPO)。该方法可用作质量控制工具,以体外确定多种局部应用的抗氧化剂(在这种情况下为GA)对人SC的LPO抑制百分比。结果表明,当直接应用GA或将其包埋在美容纺织品中时,人SC中的LPO形成受到抑制,这证明了两种应用的有效性。两种局部应用后获得的LPO抑制百分比,对于美容纺织品约为10%,对于直接应用含GA的微球约为41%。该方法可用于确定包封在美容纺织品中的局部应用抗氧化剂对人SC的有效性。

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