Matos Melanie S, Romero-Díez Rut, Álvarez Ana, Bronze M R, Rodríguez-Rojo Soraya, Mato Rafael B, Cocero M J, Matias Ana A
Nutraceuticals & Bioactives Process Technology Group, Instituto de Biologia Experimental e Tecnológica (iBET), Av. República, Qta. Do Marquês, Estação Agronómica Nacional, Edifício iBET/ITQB, 2780-157 Oeiras, Portugal.
BioEcoUVa, Research Institute on Bioeconomy, High Pressure Processes Group, Department of Chemical Engineering and Environmental Technology, School of Engineering, University of Valladolid (UVa), Sede Mergelina Valladolid, 47011 Castilla y León, Spain.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2019 Sep 1;8(9):355. doi: 10.3390/antiox8090355.
Phenolics present in grapes have been explored as cosmeceutical principles, due to their antioxidant activity and ability to inhibit enzymes relevant for skin ageing. The winemaking process generates large amounts of waste, and the recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their further incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity for wine producers and may contribute to a sustainable development of the sector. The extracts obtained from grape marc and wine lees, using solid-liquid (SL) extraction with and without microwave (MW) pretreatment of the raw material, were characterized in terms of antioxidant activity through chemical (ORAC/HOSC/HORAC) and cell-based (keratinocytes-HaCaT; fibroblasts-HFF) assays. Furthermore, their inhibitory capacity towards specific enzymes involved in skin ageing (elastase; MMP-1; tyrosinase) was evaluated. The total phenolic and anthocyanin contents were determined by colorimetric assays, and HPLC-DAD-MS/MS was performed to identify the main compounds. The MW pretreatment prior to conventional SL extraction led to overall better outcomes. The red wine lees extracts presented the highest phenolic content (3 to 6-fold higher than grape marc extracts) and exhibited the highest antioxidant capacity, being also the most effective inhibitors of elastase, MMP-1 and tyrosinase. The results support that winemaking waste streams are valuable sources of natural ingredients with the potential for cosmeceutical applications.
由于葡萄中所含酚类物质具有抗氧化活性以及抑制与皮肤老化相关酶的能力，因此已被作为药妆成分进行研究。酿酒过程会产生大量废弃物，从这些残渣中回收生物活性化合物并将其进一步应用于化妆品中，对葡萄酒生产商来说是一个充满前景的市场机遇，也有助于该行业的可持续发展。采用固液（SL）萃取法，对未经微波（MW）预处理以及经过微波预处理的葡萄渣和酒糟进行萃取，通过化学法（氧自由基吸收能力/羟基自由基清除能力/氢过氧自由基清除能力）和基于细胞的实验（角质形成细胞-HaCaT；成纤维细胞-HFF）对提取物的抗氧化活性进行表征。此外，还评估了它们对皮肤老化相关特定酶（弹性蛋白酶；基质金属蛋白酶-1；酪氨酸酶）的抑制能力。通过比色法测定总酚和花青素含量，并采用高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测-串联质谱法（HPLC-DAD-MS/MS）鉴定主要化合物。在传统固液萃取之前进行微波预处理总体上能产生更好的效果。红葡萄酒糟提取物的酚类含量最高（比葡萄渣提取物高3至6倍），抗氧化能力最强，也是弹性蛋白酶、基质金属蛋白酶-1和酪氨酸酶最有效的抑制剂。结果表明，酿酒废物流是具有药妆应用潜力的天然成分的宝贵来源。
