Besrour Nermine, Oludemi Taofiq, Mandim Filipa, Pereira Carla, Dias Maria Inês, Soković Marina, Stojković Dejan, Ferreira Olga, Ferreira Isabel C F R, Barros Lillian
Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal.
Nutrition and Bromatology Group, Department of Analytical Chemistry and Food Science, Faculty of Science, Univeridade de Vigo, 36310 Ourense, Spain.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2022 Mar 30;11(4):677. doi: 10.3390/antiox11040677.
The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing leaf extract. The extract's antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3--caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 ± 0.04 mg/g), quercetin--pentoside (9.64 ± 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3--glucoside (6.70 ± 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 µg/mL. Within -infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 µg/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photo-irritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.
化妆品行业一直在寻找具有生物活性的成分，即那些源自天然且具有环境友好内涵、毒性较小的成分。我们研究小组之前的一项研究通过热辅助萃取优化了从[具体来源]中提取酚类化合物的方法。鉴于其富含多种不同的酚类化合物，本研究旨在开发一种含有[具体植物]叶提取物的配方。对该提取物的抗氧化、抗酪氨酸酶、抗菌、抗炎、伤口愈合、细胞毒性和光稳定性等特性进行了评估。然后将该提取物加入水包油型基础乳膏中，接着对最终配方的抗氧化性能、酚类成分以及在不同储存条件下随时间的稳定性进行表征。水乙醇提取物中含量最高的化合物为3 - [具体结构] - 咖啡酰奎尼酸（18.30 ± 0.04毫克/克）、槲皮素 - [具体结构] - 戊糖苷（9.64 ± 0.06毫克/克）和槲皮素3 - [具体结构] - 葡萄糖苷（6.70 ± 0.19毫克/克）。除此之外，该提取物对多种皮肤病原体具有抗氧化、抗炎、伤口愈合和抗菌作用。此外，在400微克/毫升时，HaCaT细胞活力维持在98%。在[具体细菌]感染的HaCaT细胞中，该提取物在无毒浓度（200微克/毫升）下也呈现出超过40%的细菌死亡率。加入提取物后，所得配方在不同储存条件下随时间推移呈现出良好的物理化学特性，同时还保持了其抗氧化效果；因此，可认为其适用于局部应用且稳定。未来应开展工作，评估其在皮肤渗透方面的性能，并针对监管要求进行详细的毒理学研究，包括皮肤刺激性（原文未提及具体监管要求中的皮肤刺激性英文表述，推测为skin irritation）、眼刺激性、遗传毒性、光刺激性和皮肤吸收情况，因为所制备的配方展现出了值得进一步探索的相关特性。
