There has been a recent surge in transformer-based architectures for learning on graphs, mainly motivated by attention as an effective learning mechanism and the desire to supersede the hand-crafted operators characteristic of message passing schemes. However, concerns over their empirical effectiveness, scalability, and complexity of the pre-processing steps have been raised, especially in relation to much simpler graph neural networks that typically perform on par with them across a wide range of benchmarks. To address these shortcomings, we consider graphs as sets of edges and propose a purely attention-based approach consisting of an encoder and an attention pooling mechanism. The encoder vertically interleaves masked and vanilla self-attention modules to learn an effective representation of edges while allowing for tackling possible misspecifications in input graphs. Despite its simplicity, the approach outperforms fine-tuned message passing baselines and recently proposed transformer-based methods on more than 70 node and graph-level tasks, including challenging long-range benchmarks. Moreover, we demonstrate state-of-the-art performance across different tasks, ranging from molecular to vision graphs, and heterophilous node classification. The approach also outperforms graph neural networks and transformers in transfer learning settings and scales much better than alternatives with a similar performance level or expressive power.