Gasparro F P
Photobiology Laboratory, Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Biology, Thomas Jefferson University, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19107, USA.
Environ Health Perspect. 2000 Mar;108 Suppl 1(Suppl 1):71-8. doi: 10.1289/ehp.00108s171.
Sunscreens are ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-absorbing chemicals that attenuate the amount and nature of UVR reaching viable cells in the skin. They are selected and tested for their ability to prevent erythema. No sunscreen prevents photodamage, as it has been demonstrated that suberythemal doses of UVR cause a variety of molecular changes (including DNA damage) in these cells. Furthermore, the spectrum of UVR reaching viable cells is altered by topically applied sunscreen. In this review, the basic aspects of sunscreens and skin photobiology are reviewed briefly. Although there can be no question concerning the efficacy of sunscreens for the prevention of erythema, questions remain because of the possible cumulative effects of chronic suberythemal doses and the increased exposure of skin cells to longer UVR wavelengths. The current major issue surrounding sunscreens involves their ability to protect skin cells against the effects of UVA radiation. These UVA effects may be direct damage (base oxidations) or effects on the skin immune system, yet there is no uniformly accepted method for the evaluation of UVA protection. This review is focused primarily on the latter topic covering action spectra that implicate the need for UVA protection. In addition, in vivo and in vitro methods proposed for the evaluation of candidate sunscreen formulations of UVA protective ability are reviewed. Finally, revisions in the terminology used to describe the protection afforded by sunscreens are suggested. It is proposed that SPF ("sun" protection factor) be renamed "sunburn" protection factor and that "critical wavelength" be designated "long wave index."
防晒霜是吸收紫外线(UVR)的化学物质,可减弱到达皮肤中活细胞的UVR的量和性质。它们因其预防红斑的能力而被挑选和测试。没有一种防晒霜能预防光损伤,因为已经证明亚红斑剂量的UVR会在这些细胞中引起多种分子变化(包括DNA损伤)。此外,局部涂抹的防晒霜会改变到达活细胞的UVR光谱。在这篇综述中,将简要回顾防晒霜和皮肤光生物学的基本方面。尽管防晒霜预防红斑的功效毋庸置疑,但由于慢性亚红斑剂量的可能累积效应以及皮肤细胞对更长UVR波长的暴露增加,问题依然存在。目前围绕防晒霜的主要问题涉及其保护皮肤细胞免受UVA辐射影响的能力。这些UVA效应可能是直接损伤(碱基氧化)或对皮肤免疫系统的影响,然而对于UVA防护的评估尚无统一认可的方法。这篇综述主要关注后一个主题,涵盖暗示需要UVA防护的作用光谱。此外,还综述了用于评估UVA防护能力的候选防晒霜配方的体内和体外方法。最后,建议对用于描述防晒霜提供的防护的术语进行修订。提议将SPF(“防晒”系数)重新命名为“晒伤”防护系数,并将“临界波长”指定为“长波指数”。