Seifert Ludovic, Wattebled Léo, Herault Romain, Poizat Germain, Adé David, Gal-Petitfaux Nathalie, Davids Keith
CETAPS Laboratory - EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen, Rouen, France.
LITIS Laboratory - EA 4108, National Institute of Applied Sciences (INSA), Rouen, France.
PLoS One. 2014 Feb 24;9(2):e89865. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0089865. eCollection 2014.
This study investigated the functional intra-individual movement variability of ice climbers differing in skill level to understand how icefall properties were used by participants as affordances to adapt inter-limb coordination patterns during performance. Seven expert climbers and seven beginners were observed as they climbed a 30 m icefall. Movement and positioning of the left and right hand ice tools, crampons and the climber's pelvis over the first 20 m of the climb were recorded and digitized using video footage from a camera (25 Hz) located perpendicular to the plane of the icefall. Inter-limb coordination, frequency and types of action and vertical axis pelvis displacement exhibited by each climber were analysed for the first five minutes of ascent. Participant perception of climbing affordances was assessed through: (i) calculating the ratio between exploratory movements and performed actions, and (ii), identifying, by self-confrontation interviews, the perceptual variables of environmental properties, which were significant to climbers for their actions. Data revealed that experts used a wider range of upper and lower limb coordination patterns, resulting in the emergence of different types of action and fewer exploratory movements, suggesting that effective holes in the icefall provided affordances to regulate performance. In contrast, beginners displayed lower levels of functional intra-individual variability of motor organization, due to repetitive swinging of ice tools and kicking of crampons to achieve and maintain a deep anchorage, suggesting lack of perceptual attunement and calibration to environmental properties to support climbing performance.
本研究调查了不同技能水平的攀冰者个体内部的功能性运动变异性,以了解参与者如何利用冰瀑特性作为可供性来调整表演期间的肢体间协调模式。观察了7名专业攀冰者和7名初学者攀爬30米冰瀑的过程。使用垂直于冰瀑平面的摄像机(25Hz)拍摄的视频片段,记录并数字化了攀爬前20米过程中左手和右手冰镐、冰爪以及攀爬者骨盆的运动和位置。分析了每位攀爬者在上升的前五分钟内表现出的肢体间协调、动作频率和类型以及骨盆垂直轴位移。通过以下方式评估参与者对攀爬可供性的感知:(i)计算探索性动作与执行动作之间的比率,以及(ii)通过自我对比访谈确定对攀爬者动作具有重要意义的环境属性的感知变量。数据显示,专业攀冰者使用了更广泛的上肢和下肢协调模式,导致出现不同类型的动作且探索性动作更少,这表明冰瀑中有效的孔洞提供了可供性来调节表现。相比之下,初学者表现出较低水平的运动组织个体内部功能变异性,这是由于他们反复摆动冰镐和踢冰爪以实现并保持牢固的固定,这表明他们缺乏对环境属性的感知协调和校准以支持攀爬表现。