Kim Ye Hyang, Park Hye Rim, Cha So Yoon, Lee So Hun, Jo Jung Wung, Go Jung Nam, Lee Kang Hyuk, Lee Su Yeon, Shin Song Seok
Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland, Cheongju, Republic of Korea.
J Ginseng Res. 2020 Jan;44(1):115-122. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2018.09.006. Epub 2018 Oct 6.
In aged skin, degradation of collagen fibers, which occupy the majority of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, and changes of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and skin constituents, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide, cause wrinkles and decrease skin moisturization to contribute to dryness and lower elasticity skin. Red ginseng (RG) is used as a cosmetic and food material and is known to protect from UVB-induced cell death, increase skin hydration, prevent wrinkles, and have an antioxidative effect. But, in general, RG used as a material is the soluble liquid portion in the solvent, and the part that is not soluble in the solvent is discarded. Thus, we made the whole RG into microgranulation and dispersed in water to produce gel form for using entire RG, and it was named red ginseng NaturalGEL (RG NGEL).
RG NGEL was investigated for matrix metalloproteinases inhibitory activity, induction of Type I collagen, AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expression and compared with RG water extract.
RG NGEL reduced the levels of UV-induced matrix metalloproteinases and increased Type I collagen in human fibroblast cells and upregulated AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expressions in human keratinocytes compared with RG water extract.
RG NGEL has the potential as an effective reagent for antiaging cosmetics to improve wrinkle formation and skin hydration.
在老年皮肤中，占真皮细胞外基质大部分的胶原纤维降解，以及水通道蛋白3（AQP3）和皮肤成分如透明质酸和神经酰胺的变化，会导致皱纹产生并降低皮肤保湿能力，进而导致皮肤干燥和弹性降低。红参（RG）被用作化妆品和食品原料，已知其能保护细胞免受紫外线B诱导的细胞死亡，增加皮肤水分，预防皱纹，并具有抗氧化作用。但是，一般来说，用作原料的红参是溶剂中的可溶液体部分，不溶于溶剂的部分则被丢弃。因此，我们将整个红参制成微颗粒并分散在水中制成凝胶形式以使用整个红参，将其命名为红参天然凝胶（RG NGEL）。
研究RG NGEL的基质金属蛋白酶抑制活性、I型胶原蛋白、AQP3、透明质酸合成酶2、丝氨酸棕榈酰转移酶、神经酰胺合成酶3和丝聚蛋白表达的诱导情况，并与红参水提取物进行比较。
与红参水提取物相比，RG NGEL降低了紫外线诱导的人成纤维细胞中基质金属蛋白酶的水平，增加了I型胶原蛋白，并上调了人角质形成细胞中AQP3、透明质酸合成酶2、丝氨酸棕榈酰转移酶、神经酰胺合成酶3和丝聚蛋白的表达。
RG NGEL有潜力作为一种有效的抗老化化妆品试剂，以改善皱纹形成和皮肤保湿。
