Micek Iwona, Nawrot Joanna, Seraszek-Jaros Agnieszka, Jenerowicz Dorota, Schroeder Grzegorz, Spiżewski Tomasz, Suchan Adela, Pawlaczyk Mariola, Gornowicz-Porowska Justyna
Department and Division of Practical Cosmetology and Skin Diseases Prophylaxis, Poznan University of Medicinal Sciences, Mazowiecka 33, 60-623 Poznan, Poland.
Department of Bioinformatics and Computational Biology, Poznan University of Medical Sciences, 4 Rokietnicka Street, 60-806 Poznan, Poland.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2021 Oct 15;10(10):1625. doi: 10.3390/antiox10101625.
Active substances, effective in the reduction in or delay of skin changes caused by aging occurring in natural compounds, are desirable. Taxifolin (TXF), a flavonoid of strong antioxidant activity found in the plant (), has been tested for its biological effects on adult human skin. The aim of the study was to investigate the effects of two creams: 3% extract and 3% TXF on the function of adult skin. In total, 97 Caucasian women with clinical signs of skin aging were investigated. The biophysical and biomechanical skin parameters were measured before and after applying the creams, using Colorimeter CL400, Mexameter MX16, Skin-pH-Meter PH900, Skin-Thermometer ST 500, Glossymeter GL200, and Cutiscan SC100. Patch tests were performed with the investigated products to assess their potential irritant properties. The percutaneous penetration of creams was examined with the use of electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and confocal Raman spectroscopy. The 3% extract cream reduced hyperpigmentation, erythema, and elevated pH. All the tested preparations were proven to be nonirritant. A higher penetration rate was revealed for the 3% TXF cream than for the 3% extract cream. A total of 3% TXF cream improved skin viscoelasticity. The obtained results suggested that extract and TXF may be considered as ingredients of skincare products for adults.
人们期望能找到在天然化合物中对减少或延缓衰老引起的皮肤变化有效的活性物质。花旗松素（TXF）是一种在植物（此处原文缺失植物名称）中发现的具有强抗氧化活性的黄酮类化合物，已对其对成年人类皮肤的生物学效应进行了测试。本研究的目的是调查两种乳膏：3%的提取物乳膏和3%的TXF乳膏对成年皮肤功能的影响。总共对97名有皮肤老化临床体征的白种女性进行了调查。在涂抹乳膏前后，使用色差仪CL400、皮肤黑色素仪MX16、皮肤pH计PH900、皮肤温度计ST 500、光泽度仪GL200和皮肤扫描仪SC100测量皮肤的生物物理和生物力学参数。对所研究的产品进行斑贴试验以评估其潜在的刺激性。使用电喷雾电离质谱（ESI-MS）和共聚焦拉曼光谱检查乳膏的经皮渗透情况。3%的提取物乳膏减少了色素沉着、红斑并降低了pH值。所有测试制剂均被证明无刺激性。结果显示3%的TXF乳膏的渗透率高于3%的提取物乳膏。3%的TXF乳膏总体上改善了皮肤的粘弹性。所得结果表明提取物和TXF可被视为成人护肤品的成分。
