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Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Dec;33(6):535-42. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00667.x. Epub 2011 Jun 29.
Proopiomelanocortin is a precursor peptide that gives rise to several neuropeptides including adrenocorticotrophic hormone (ACTH) and β-endorphin. POMC-derived peptides have been shown to be synthesized in human epidermis where they modulate numerous skin functions. Because we previously observed that melanocortin receptor-2 and μ-opioid receptor 1, the respective receptors for ACTH and β-endorphin decreased with ageing in human epidermis, we have selected an active ingredient (INCI name: Achillea millefolium extract) able to upregulate receptor expressions. The aim of the present work was first to evaluate the effect of A. millefolium extract on the expression pattern of various epidermal differentiation markers ex vivo in normal human skin biopsies using quantitative image analysis and second to evaluate its capacity to rejuvenate the appearance of skin surface in vivo. Results show an improved expression profile of cytokeratin 10, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin in cultured skin biopsies as well as an increased epidermal thickness. In vivo, a 2-month treatment with A. millefolium extract at 2% significantly improved the appearance of wrinkles and pores compared with placebo. Results were also directionally better than those of glycolic acid that was chosen as reference resurfacing molecule.
阿魏酰基奎宁酸是一种前体肽，可生成多种神经肽，包括促肾上腺皮质激素（ACTH）和β-内啡肽。已经证明 POMC 衍生肽在人表皮中合成，在表皮中调节多种皮肤功能。因为我们之前观察到，人表皮中促肾上腺皮质激素和β-内啡肽的相应受体黑素皮质素受体-2 和 μ-阿片受体 1 随着年龄的增长而减少，所以我们选择了一种能够上调受体表达的活性成分（INCI 名称：蓍草提取物）。本研究的目的首先是使用定量图像分析评估阿魏酰基奎宁酸在正常人皮肤活检标本中的表皮分化标志物表达模式的体外效应，其次是评估其对体内皮肤表面年轻化的能力。结果显示，培养的皮肤活检标本中细胞角蛋白 10、转谷氨酰胺酶-1 和丝聚合蛋白的表达谱得到改善，表皮厚度增加。在体内，2%浓度的阿魏酰基奎宁酸连续治疗 2 个月可显著改善皱纹和毛孔的外观，优于安慰剂。结果也明显优于选择的果酸参考再表面化分子。
