CIIMAR/CIMAR-LA-Interdisciplinary Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, University of Porto, Novo Edifício do Terminal de Cruzeiros de Leixões, Avenida General Norton de Matos, s/n, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal.
FCUP-Faculty of Science, University of Porto, Rua do Campo Alegre, s/n, 4169-007 Porto, Portugal.
Mar Drugs. 2022 Jul 27;20(8):481. doi: 10.3390/md20080481.
The current mindset in the cosmetics market about sustainable ingredients had increased the search for new sources of natural active ingredients. Cyanobacteria are a great source of functional ingredients for cosmetics, as a producer of pigments with described bioactive potential (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins). This work aimed to evaluate the cosmetic potential of marine cyanobacterium sp. pigment-targeted extracts (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins), evaluating their in vitro safety through cytotoxicity assays, cosmetic-related enzyme inhibition, ingredient stability, and putative product (serum formulation). Results showed no cytotoxicity from the extracts in skin-related cell lines. Carotenoid extract showed anti-hyaluronidase capacity (IC = 108.74 ± 5.74 mg mL) and phycobiliprotein extract showed anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase capacity (IC = 67.25 ± 1.18 and 582.82 ± 56.99 mg mL, respectively). Regarding ingredient and serum stability, both ingredients showed higher stability at low-temperature conditions, and it was possible to maintain the pigment content and bioactive capacity stable during the tested period, although in higher temperatures the product was degraded in a week. As a major conclusion, both extracts can be potential natural and sustainable ingredients for cosmetic uses, with relatively simple formulation and storage, and can be promising natural anti-aging ingredients due to their bioactive capacity.
当前，化妆品市场对可持续成分的观念有所转变，这增加了对天然活性成分新来源的探索。蓝细菌是功能性化妆品成分的重要来源，因为它是具有描述生物活性潜力的色素（类胡萝卜素和藻胆蛋白）的生产者。本工作旨在评估海洋蓝细菌 sp. 色素靶向提取物（类胡萝卜素和藻胆蛋白）的化妆品潜力，通过细胞毒性测定、与化妆品相关的酶抑制、成分稳定性和潜在产品（血清配方）评估其体外安全性。结果表明，提取物对皮肤相关细胞系无细胞毒性。类胡萝卜素提取物具有透明质酸酶抑制能力（IC = 108.74 ± 5.74 mg mL），藻胆蛋白提取物具有透明质酸酶和胶原酶抑制能力（IC = 67.25 ± 1.18 和 582.82 ± 56.99 mg mL，分别）。关于成分和血清稳定性，两种成分在低温条件下稳定性更高，并且在测试期间可以保持色素含量和生物活性稳定，尽管在较高温度下，该产品在一周内被降解。总之，两种提取物都可以作为天然、可持续的化妆品成分，具有相对简单的配方和储存方式，并且由于其生物活性，它们可能是有前途的天然抗衰老成分。
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